I kēia mau lā, ua kono ʻia au i ka Barolo en primeur ma Il Gattopardo (me kahi Zoom simulcast mai Grinzane Cavor Castle ma Piedmont, Italia). Ua nānā pū ʻia ka hanana ma Kelemania, Switzerland, a me UK, me ka hui pū me ka Langhe Monferrato Roero Tourist Board. ʻO En Primeur kahi ʻōnaehana kūʻai kaulana ma Bordeaux kahi i kuaiia ai na waina a kūʻai ʻia ʻoiai lākou e ʻelemakule ana i nā barela a hāʻawi ʻia i ka mea kūʻai aku i ka pau ʻana o ke kaʻina hana (ʻaʻole kaulana kēia ʻano kūʻai ma waho o Gironde).
Pahuhopu
Hāʻawi ka hanana i nā mea ʻohi waina i kahi manawa kūpono ʻole e komo i kahi hana philanthropic e pōmaikaʻi ai i nā hui aloha a me nā ʻohi waina. ʻO nā mea kūʻai kiʻekiʻe loa o nā pā o Barolo (2020 vintage) mai kahi ʻāpana kikoʻī i loko o kahi māla waina i loaʻa i ka waina a me nā kuleana kaena e pili ana.
ʻO kekahi pahuhopu ʻo ia ka hōʻike ʻana i ka paʻakikī o nā mea like ʻole i kūkulu ʻia i ka māla waina ʻo Gustava (a hiki i kēia manawa ʻaʻole i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ka waina ma ke ʻano he varietal kūʻokoʻa). Ua lanakila ka poʻe kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe i kahi barrique o ka waina i hana ʻia mai nā hua waina ʻo Barolo Nebbiolo, i ʻohi ʻia i 2020, ma ka cascina Gustava Vineyard, Frinzane. Ke hoʻopau ka waina i kāna kaʻina hana kahiko (2024) e hāʻawi mai kēlā me kēia pahu ma kahi o 300 mau hue, e hoʻopaʻa ʻia a hōʻailona ʻia me kahi lepili i hana ʻia e ka mea pena kiʻi ʻo Giuseppe Penone. ʻO ka mākeke pahuhopu no ke kūʻai? ʻO nā mea ʻike waina kiʻekiʻe, me nā mea ʻohi waina, nā mea kūʻai aku, a me nā mea kūʻai aku.
Barolo. Ka Waina
Ua ulu ʻo Nebbiolo ma Piedmont i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 14. Ua lohi ka oʻo ʻana o ka hua waina a maʻalahi i ka pōʻino i ka wā ʻino; akā naʻe, no ka mea, hana ia i ka waina ʻulaʻula maikaʻi loa, mahalo nui ʻia. Pono ʻo Barolos ma kahi liʻiliʻi o ʻekolu mau makahiki, ʻelua paha ma ka lāʻau, e hana ana i ka waina i tannic a paʻa a maʻamau e pono i ʻelima mau makahiki e palupalu i loko o kahi waina paʻakikī.
Manaʻo ʻia ʻo Barolo kekahi o nā inoa waina maikaʻi loa o Italia a ua manaʻo ka poʻe loea he ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hana waina ʻItalia. ʻO kekahi poʻe oeniphiles e ʻōlelo iā Barolo ʻo ke aliʻi o nā waina a me ka waina o nā aliʻi no ka mea, a hiki i ka waena o ke kenekulia 19, nona ʻo Piedmont e ka hale hanohano o Savoy, nā aliʻi mōʻaukala o ke komohana komohana o Italia. Ua makemake ka poʻe Savoy iā Nebbiolo a ʻo ka Barolo DOCG he 11 mau kaiāulu, me ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Barolo.
Aia he 4200 mau ʻeka māla waina ma ka inoa a mai ka hopena o ke kenekulia 19, ua hoʻāʻo nā mea kanu e ʻike i kā lākou mau māla waina maikaʻi loa. Pono ka Barolo COCG e lilo nā waina i 100% Nebbiolo, kahi hua waina i manaʻo ʻia ʻo Pinot Noir o Italia.
He mea hoihoi ia e ʻike ʻaʻole ʻo Grinzane kahi moʻolelo mele no ka hana ʻana i ka māla waina Barolos kū hoʻokahi a ua hoʻohana ʻia ka hapa nui o nā hua i loko o Barolos i hui ʻia. Ua ʻike ka poʻe loea i ka hiki iā Nebbiolo ke hoʻouna i ke ʻano o ka wahi a loaʻa iā ia ka mana kūpono e kū hoʻokahi. ʻO nā waina a pau i loko o ke kūʻai aku ua hoʻopau ʻia i loko o ka barrique, e hoʻolimalima ana i nā lā he 10-15 ma nā ʻili me ka paʻi lima lima a me nā kuʻi iho. ʻO ka malolactic fermentation i hana ʻia i loko o nā barela. Kuhi ʻia ka ʻelemakule ma kahi o 24 mau mahina i ka lāʻau a e ʻokoʻa ʻia ma muli o ka waina pākahi.
Kudala Superstars
ʻO Antonio Galloni (ka mea hoʻokae waina a me ka Luna Nui o Vineous) i hoʻonohonoho i ka papahana ma New York a hana i nā NFT (nā hōʻailona non-fungible) no kēlā me kēia o nā 15 barriques, kahi ʻano o ka palapala kikohoʻe i hōʻoia ʻia e blockchain. Hānau ʻia ma Venezuela, ua hoʻolauna ʻia ʻo Galloni i ka waina i kona wā ʻōpiopio ʻoiai ʻo kona mau mākua he mau mea kūʻai waina ʻItalia a makemake kona kupuna kāne i nā waina mai Bordeaux, Burgundy a me Rhone. Ua kākau ʻo Galloni i kāna mau moʻolelo mua ma Burgundy a me Bordeaux no kāna papa Farani kula kiʻekiʻe.
Ua loaʻa iā Galloni kahi MBA mai ke kula ʻo MIT Sloan School of Management. I ka makahiki 2003, ua hoʻomaka ʻo ia i kahi nūhou e kālele ana i nā waina o Piedmont, e hoʻohua ana i ke ola o ka piha piha ʻana i ka waina ʻItalia. Ua hauʻoli ʻo Barolo iā ia a ua hoʻomaka ʻo ia i ka Piedont Report (2004), a ua lilo ia i alakaʻi alakaʻi no nā waina o ka ʻāina. Ua lilo ʻo Galloni i mea hoʻohewa waina Italia no Robert Parker ma 2006 a ma 2013 hoʻomaka ʻo Vinous.
Ma Italia, ua mālama ʻia ka hanana e philanthropist, ʻo Evelina Christillin, Pelekikena o ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike o Egyptian Antiquities Foundation (Turin), a me ka Pelekikena mua o ENIT (The Italian Government Tourist Board). Ua hui pū ʻia ʻo ia e ka mea hoʻolaha kūʻai, ʻo Valeria Ciardiello, he mea kākau moʻolelo Italia a me Cristiano De Lorenzo, Luna Hoʻokele o Christie's Italia, nāna i mālama i ke kūʻai ola.
Ua alakaʻi ʻia ke kūʻai ʻana e ka hale kūʻai ʻo Christie, ma Italia…ma kahi hana maʻamau, ʻaʻole lākou i ʻae i kā lākou mau komisina maʻamau i mea e pōmaikaʻi ai nā hui aloha.
He 30,000 Euro ka uku liʻiliʻi o kēlā me kēia pā, e hana ana ma kahi o 300 mau hue Barolo i helu ʻia me kahi lepili i hoʻolālā ʻia e ka mea pena kiʻi a me ka mea kālai kiʻi Italia, ʻo Giuseppe Penone i ʻike ʻia no kāna mau kiʻi kumu lāʻau nui e ʻike i ka pilina ma waena o ke kanaka a me ke ao kūlohelohe.
Ua alakaʻi ʻia ke Kōmike Hoʻokele Scientific e Matteo Ascheri, ka Pelekikena o ka Consortium no ka palekana o Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe Dogliani, me ke komo ʻana o Vincenzo Gerbi, Profesor Emeritus o ke Kulanui o Turin a me Vladimiro Rambaldi, Luna Hoʻokele o Agenzia di Pollenzo, Sp A, a me ka hui pū ʻana o ka mea noiʻi ʻo Anna Schneider (National Research Council- Institute for the Sustainable Protection of Plants).
Lanakila o Barolo Barriques
Hoʻokahi wale nō mea koho ʻAmelika i kūleʻa; ʻO ka hapa nui o nā pā i kūʻai ʻia e nā ʻohi ʻohi ma ʻEulopa. Ma ka huina, ua hoʻonui ʻia ke kūʻai aku ma luna o 600,000 Euros me nā ʻāpana pākahi e kiʻi ana ma kahi o 30,000 a 50,000 Euros kēlā me kēia.
ʻO ka makana kiʻekiʻe loa o 140,000 Euros i hoʻopaʻa i ka tonneau wale nō i ka papahana, kahi pā waina nui e like me 600 mau hue o ka Barolo de Commune di Grinzane Cavour 2020 i hoʻohui ʻole ʻia i ka hopena o ke kūʻai ʻana e ka hope pelekikena o Cassa di Risparmio ma Cuneo Foundation, Ezio Raviola.
ʻO ka 50,000 Euro ma ka Barolo No. Wahi a ka mea hoʻohewa ʻo Galloni, ʻo ia "kekahi o nā waina hoihoi loa i kēia kūʻai aku…”
Ua komo pū ka poʻe i loaʻa i ke kūʻai aku i ka Alta Langa Cultural Park no kā lākou papahana moʻomeheu/kaʻahele; ʻO ka Augusto Rancilio Foundation no ka noiʻi / noiʻi ʻana i ka hoʻolālā, kākoʻo i ka poʻe ʻōpio a me ko lākou komo ʻana i ka honua o ka hana a me ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana o kahi villa 17th century, a me kahi hana aloha ma Hong Kong e kākoʻo ana i nā keiki makua ʻole a me nā ʻōpio hāpai.
ʻO ka Future
Manaʻo nā mea hoʻonohonoho hanana e lilo ka Barolo En Primeur mua (i kapa ʻia ʻo "edition zero") i kumu hoʻohālike no ka wā e hiki mai ana, a malia paha, e hāʻawi nā mea hana Barolo i kā lākou waina i nā hanana like ʻole.
ʻO ka hanana
© Kauka Elinor Garely. ʻAʻole hiki ke kope ʻia kēia ʻatikala kope, me nā kiʻi, me ka ʻole o ka ʻae palapala ʻia mai ka mea kākau.
He aha e lawe ʻia mai kēia ʻatikala:
- He ʻōnaehana kūʻai kaulana ʻo En Primeur ma Bordeaux kahi i kūʻai ʻia ai nā waina i ka wā e ʻelemakule ana lākou i nā barela a hāʻawi ʻia i ka mea kūʻai aku i ka pau ʻana o ke kaʻina hana (ʻaʻole kaulana kēia ʻano kūʻai ma waho o Gironde).
- ʻO kekahi poʻe oeniphiles e ʻōlelo iā Barolo ʻo ke Aliʻi o nā waina a me ka waina o nā aliʻi no ka mea, a hiki i ka waena o ke kenekulia 19, ʻo Piedmont ka hale hanohano o Savoy, nā aliʻi mōʻaukala o ke komohana komohana o Italia.
- Pono ʻo Barolos ma kahi liʻiliʻi o ʻekolu mau makahiki, ʻelua paha ma ka lāʻau, e hana ana i ka waina he tannic a paʻa a maʻamau e pono i ʻelima mau makahiki e palupalu i loko o kahi waina paʻakikī.
