Ke kaua a Armenia no ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi

Ma kahi puʻu ma waho o Yerevan, ke kapikala o Armenia, aia kahi kiʻi ʻeleʻele a keʻokeʻo o kahi kanaka 24 makahiki. He kī poʻohiwi, ua ʻaʻahu ʻia ʻo ia i ka ʻaʻahu pūʻali koa, he kuʻemaka mānoanoa, he ihu ākea a me nā pepeiao puaʻa liʻiliʻi. No ka kikoʻī o ke kiʻi a ʻike maopopo ʻia ka curvature o kāna ʻāpala ʻAdamu.

Nānā iki ʻo ia mai ka lens pahupaʻikiʻi, he hiʻohiʻona e hōʻike ana i ka huhū i ka pūʻali koa i koi iā ia e kiʻi i kāna kiʻi. Aia ma kona lua kupapaʻu ʻelua mau pua melemele maloʻo.

ʻO ka hapa nui o nā haneli poʻo poʻo ma ka hale kupapaʻu ʻo Yerablur he paʻi kope o ka maka o ka mea i make ma luna o lākou. Eia ka poʻe ʻAmenia i hōʻeha ʻia i ke kaua Nagorno-Karabakh, i hoʻokō ʻia no ʻeono makahiki a hiki i 1994, i ka wā i hōʻea ʻia ai kahi hoʻomaha ʻole.

ʻO Armenia a me kona hoalauna hikina, ʻo Azerbaijan, ke kaua mau nei ma luna o ka ʻāina Nagorno-Karabakh. ʻO ka mea nui loa, ʻo ka ʻenemi kahiko o Armenia ma ke komohana, ʻo Turkey, i kākoʻo iā Azerbaijan a pani i kona palena 330km (205 mile) lōʻihi me ka ʻāina paʻa. ʻO ka hope loa, i ka mahina ʻo ʻOkakopa, ua hana ʻia kekahi holomua maoli ma ka hoʻokele waiwai a me ka diplomatic ma waena o nā ʻāina, me ke kau inoa ʻana o nā protocols e wehe koke i kahi palena maʻamau.

ʻO ke poʻokela ma waena o nā manaʻo hoʻokele waiwai o ke aupuni Armenia no ka ʻaelike Tureke e hoʻoikaika i ka ulu ʻana o ka ʻoihana mākaʻikaʻi o ka ʻāina. Manaʻo ke Kuhina o ka Waiwai he 422,500 ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi i kipa aku i ka ʻāina i nā mahina ʻeiwa mua o kēia makahiki, ua piʻi aʻe ʻelima pākēneka ma ka manawa like i ka makahiki 2008, a ke manaʻo nei e hoʻonui hou i kēia helu me nā palena paʻa.

Ua hoʻohilahila ʻia ʻo Armenia i ka poʻe malihini kipa: i ka mahina ʻo Kepakemapa ua hoʻolauleʻa ka ʻāina i kāna International Tourism Day, ʻoiai ma mua o kēia makahiki ua hōʻemi ʻia ka visa komo ʻana ma Yerevan's Zvartnots International Airport e 80 pākēneka i 3,000 drams, ma kahi o $8 (£4.75). Eia naʻe, ʻaʻohe oʻu kālā kūloko, ua uku ʻia au he 15 mau kālā.

Ma hope o ka lua kupapaʻu, ke kanaka ʻeleʻele nui e mālama ana i nā lua kupapaʻu (ʻoi aku ka ʻeleʻele o ka ʻili o ka poʻe ʻulaʻula ma mua o nā papa waiwai ma Yerevan) lulu lima i koʻu lima, me he mea lā ua hui pū mākou i kahi ʻeha maʻamau, e noʻonoʻo iaʻu inā makemake ka poʻe. hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka hoʻoikaika ʻana i ka mākaʻikaʻi me kā lākou kūʻē kūʻē iā Turkey.

Ma hope mai, haʻi mai kahi waiter iaʻu: "Manaʻo ka hapa nui ʻaʻole maikaʻi kēia mau protocol, 60 a i ʻole 70 pākēneka i huhū loa. Manaʻo lākou e poina mākou [i ka wā i hala.

ʻO ka nui o nā hiʻohiʻona nui o Yerevan e hōʻike ana i kona huhū i kahi ʻāina e hoʻomalu nei i kēia lā ma mua o 60 pākēneka o Armenia mōʻaukala. Ke nānā aku nei i ke kikowaena o Yerevan, ka mea i hana ʻia me he amphitheater ʻoiai ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kūlanakauhale mai 900m (2,900ft) a 1,300m ma luna o ka ʻilikai, ʻo Mother Armenia (kiʻi ʻia ma ka uhi). Hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki 1967, kū ʻo Mother Armenia i 21m kiʻekiʻe a noho ma kahi plinth 43 mika kiʻekiʻe i hoʻokumu mua i ke kumu no ke kiʻi o Stalin. Nānā ʻo ia i ka mauna ʻo Ararata, i kēia manawa ma ka ʻāina ʻo Tureke, kahi i uhi ʻia e ka smog i ka lā aʻu e kipa aku ai i ka ʻOkakopa me ka ua ʻole.

Aia ma ka lima ʻākau o Mother Armenia he pahi kaua, i hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻia a holo i mua o kona ʻōpū. Mai kahi lōʻihi aku ka silhouette o ke kino a me ka mea kaua e hana i ke keʻa, kūpono no kahi ʻāina i lawe mua i ka hoʻomana Kalikiano ma ke ʻano he hoʻomana aupuni. Ma ke alo o ke kiʻi, i kākau ʻia ma ka pīʻāpā ʻAmenia 1,700 makahiki, aia nā huaʻōlelo "ʻAʻole mākou i ʻike i kou inoa, akā ʻo kou wiwo ʻole he make ʻole".

"Ua mākaukau ʻo ia e hāpai i kāna pahi kaua e pale i kāna mau keiki kāne," wahi a Elya, koʻu alakaʻi huakaʻi, no nā panalāʻau ʻākau o ka ʻāina. "He ʻano hoʻoweliweli ia iā Turkey." ʻŌlelo ʻo ia i kēia ʻāpana hope me ka ʻakaʻaka, akā aia ke koʻikoʻi ma hope o ka hoʻohenehene.

Ua wehewehe ʻo Elya iā ia iho he "Armenia maʻamau - ʻo ia hoʻi ke aloha ʻāina". ʻO ka poʻe Armenia, ʻōlelo ʻo ia, ua pilikia mau i ka "hoʻopau ʻia mai kēia honua". Ua haʻi ʻo Elya i nā ʻōlelo a kekahi o nā alakaʻi ʻōpio Turk o nā koena o ka Ottoman Empire i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia i hala: "Hoʻokahi wale nō ʻAmenia e mālama ʻia ma ka honua, a ʻo ia ka mea hōʻikeʻike ma kahi hale hōʻikeʻike."

Hoʻopuka hou kēia ʻōlelo ʻino i koʻu poʻo i koʻu huakaʻi ʻana mai Yerevan, ma ka pāpū hikina akau, a i kahi puʻu ma ke komohana, kahi i loaʻa ai ka Genocide Memorial and Museum. Ma ʻaneʻi, hoʻopuka ka poʻe ʻAmenia i kā lākou ʻōhumu nui iā Tureke. ʻO ka hale hōʻikeʻike, i kālai ʻia i loko o ka lepo e like me kahi bunker, e hōʻike ana i ka luku ʻia ʻana o 1.5m Armenians e kahi ʻaoʻao nationalist koʻikoʻi o ka Young Turks.

ʻO ka hopena o ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa moʻomeheu a me ka hoʻomana, ua ʻōlelo ʻia ua hoʻomaka ka luku ʻana i ka makahiki 1915 ma hope o ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana o ka ʻAmenia i ke Kaua Honua Mua. Hōʻike mai ke alakaʻi ʻōlelo Pelekania maikaʻi o ka hale hōʻikeʻike i nā mea hōʻike e pili ana i ka poʻe ʻAmenia i lanakila i nā mekala ʻOlumepika no nā Ottomans i ka makahiki 1912, a laila he kiʻi weliweli o ko lākou poʻe kamaʻāina i kau ʻia e kēlā aupuni ma ʻAleppo i ʻehā makahiki ma hope. Aia nā ʻōlelo hoʻolaha e hoʻāhewa ana i ka pepehi kanaka mai nā alakaʻi o ka honua, me kahi leka hou mai Kaleponi ʻo Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Hōʻole ʻo Turkey i ka mana o nā hanana o Armenia, a ʻo ia ka mea i hoʻokaʻawale iā Yerevan i kēia lā. Inā ʻaʻole ʻae ʻo Turkey i ka luku ʻana, ʻaʻole makemake ka poʻe Armenia e kau inoa i kekahi ʻaelike me ko lākou ʻenemi kahiko. ʻO ka mea hoihoi, ʻaʻole lawe ke alakaʻi o ka hale hōʻikeʻike i kēia ʻike. "He mea maʻamau i nā hoalauna ke loaʻa nā pilina maikaʻi ma kahi honua honua," wahi a ia.

Hele au i ke kikowaena, e ʻimi i nā ʻike hauʻoli. ʻO ia ke kikowaena kūlanakauhale nui maʻemaʻe loa aʻu i ʻike ai, holoi a hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia i kēlā me kēia kakahiaka. He mea nui kēia no ka hōʻike ʻana - ʻo ka ʻike mai Victory Bridge, e kahe ana i ka muliwai Hradzan, e hōʻike ana i nā slums i uhi ʻia ma kahi puʻu ʻaʻole mamao loa.

Eia naʻe, ʻo ke kikowaena kahi o ka hapa nui o nā hale ʻaina a me nā kaola. A he moeʻuhane no ka mea hoʻolālā kūlanakauhale. Aia kekahi ʻāpana alanui ʻokoʻa e hoʻokaʻawale pono i ke kūlanakauhale i nā ʻāpana hiki ke hoʻokele maʻalahi, i hoʻopuni ʻia e ke apo o ke kāʻei ʻōmaʻomaʻo. Aia nā pūnāwai ma nā wahi a pau, ʻaʻohe mea kupanaha ma mua o ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike Lahui i loko o ka hale kiʻi kiʻi ʻo Republic Square, me kona mau hale nui nani i kūkulu ʻia ma waena o nā makahiki 1920 a me 1950. I kēlā me kēia lā, ma hope iho o ka hola 8, hoʻomālamalama ʻia nā pūnāwai o ka hale hōʻikeʻike i nā ʻulaʻula, ʻulaʻula a me nā ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a hulahula i nā memo o nā mele kahiko.

ʻO ka manawa no ka ʻaina ahiahi, a pilikia wau i ka veal tjvjik, kahi kīʻaha hemolele ʻole o ka puʻuwai a me nā māmā, ma ka hale ʻaina Caucasus kaulana. ʻO ka mea kupaianaha, ʻo ka ʻono nui o ka ʻonika e hoʻopau i ka ʻai. He mea ʻono loa nā kīʻaha ʻē aʻe, mai ka barbecue puaʻa maʻalahi akā hoʻomaʻamaʻa maikaʻi ʻia, a hiki i kyalagyosh, kahi hui ʻana o ka berena hu ʻole, ka pipi, ka yoghurt a me ke kāleka ʻala a me nā lelo.

Puhi iki nā hale ʻaina, ma muli o ke ʻano o ka leʻaleʻa o ka ʻāina i ka puhi ʻana i ka paka, akā ʻaʻole kūʻai. No ka laʻana, ʻO kā mākou Village, kahi i manaʻo nui ʻia e kahi kamaʻāina a aia i loko o ka puʻuwai o kahi wahi mākaʻikaʻi e hoʻopuni ana i ka Hale Opera hanohano, hiki i ka $30 no ka ʻai no ʻelua, me nā mea hoʻomaka, nā papa nui, nā pia a me nā vodka ʻono huaʻai ikaika loa. Hoʻopiha ʻia e ka vodka a mahalo ʻole ʻia e ka pia - makemake ka hapa nui o nā kamaʻāina iā Kilikia, no ka mea he wai a me ka palaka i kahi lager e like me ka manaʻo o kona ikaika 3.8 pākēneka - ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o wau i ka brandy Ararat maikaʻi loa.

ʻO Marspet, he kaʻa kaʻa kaʻa, e hōʻuluʻulu maikaʻi iā ia i ko mākou holo ʻana ma mua o ke keʻena nui o ka hui me kāna hōʻailona Ararat melemele nui. "Maikaʻi loa," ʻōlelo ʻo ia me ka hāʻawi ʻana mai iaʻu i nā manamana lima a me ka ʻakaʻaka ākea o nā mola kāʻei gula. He ʻano maʻamau kēlā ʻano aloha iā Yerevan. He nani a ʻaʻahu maikaʻi hoʻi nā poʻe, pale i ka ʻike maʻamau o nā kāne a me nā keikikāne liʻiliʻi e ʻaʻahu ana i nā lole keʻokeʻo ʻo Miami Vice. Eia nō naʻe, ʻo ka homogeneity o ke kaiāulu - 98 ka nui o ka hui Armenian he ʻōiwi - he ʻano haʻahaʻa. Ma hoʻokahi hale ʻaina, ua paʻi kekahi kanaka Farani no ka ʻohana ʻApelika i ka nīnau ʻana i ka nīnau like no ka mea i manaʻo ʻia iā ia i ka haneli o ka manawa: "He aha ka mea i koʻu wahi i hele mai ai?" ʻO ka mea ʻaʻole keʻokeʻo a ʻeleʻele ka lauoho e kū i waho i hoʻokahi mile ma ʻaneʻi. Malia paha e hoʻololi hou aku nā mākaʻikaʻi.

Ke kipa aku nei au i ka apana o Erebuni ma ke komohana hema o ke kulanakauhale. ʻO kēia kahi i hoʻokumu ʻia ai ʻo Yerevan ma 78BC - 29 mau makahiki ma mua o Roma. Kaʻahele au a puni nā wahi neoneo o ka Erebuni Fortress, ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo "Fortress of Blood" ma muli o ka nui o nā tulip ʻulaʻula e ulu ana ma kēia ʻaoʻao puʻu. ʻO ka graffiti ma nā paia i koe e aloha nui ʻia e nā kūlana komohana, me nā puʻuwai nui a me ka huaʻōlelo "kiss".

ʻO ka pale ʻana i kahi hanohano o nā ʻāina ʻē e nānā nei a puni nā wahi i hoʻoneʻe ʻia he mau lālā o ka pūʻali koa, he lawelawe ʻelua makahiki i koi ʻia no nā kāne ke ʻole lākou e aʻo ana i ka PhD a i ʻole ka hoʻomākaukau ʻana no kahi ola hoʻomana ma kahi seminary. ʻAʻole ia he hana paʻakikī: ʻakaʻaka lākou a ʻakaʻaka me koʻu alakaʻi ʻo Elya, ʻoiai ke ʻike hou ʻia nei ka ʻike kupaianaha o Ararat ma ka lewa. ʻO ka 24 makahiki e waiho ana ma ka hale kupapaʻu ʻo Yerablur he 40 i kēia lā. E like me ka mea e kū nei, ʻaʻole e like kēia mau kāne i kona hopena. ʻO ka manawa paha kēia e neʻe ai. Mai poina, akā e neʻe.

KANAWAI E PILI AI

Hāʻawi ʻo Cox & Kings (020-7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk) i kahi huakaʻi ʻewalu pō ma ʻAmenia a me Georgia mai £1,795 i kēlā me kēia kanaka, ma muli o ʻelua kaʻana like. Aia ke kumukūʻai i nā mokulele hoʻi me ka bmi, hoʻololi i ʻekolu pō ma Yerevan a ʻelima mau pō ma Tblisi ma ke kumu B&B, kekahi mau ʻaina awakea, a me nā huakaʻi i Echmiadzin, Khor Virap monastery, Mtskheta a me Davit Gareja.