ʻOiai ke kūʻai hele ʻana he 12,500 kapuaʻi ma luna o ka ʻilikai ma kahi mākeke ʻaʻole mamao loa mai Lake Titicaca, ua ʻike wau ua hiki iaʻu ke kūʻai aku i kahi llama ma kahi o $ 67, kahi pā lepo lepo o nā pipi no 60 keneta a me kahi pōpoki no 30 keneta.
ʻAʻole naʻe ʻo nā holoholona ʻē aʻe a me nā ʻōpala ka mea hoihoi nui e ʻike ʻia ma ʻaneʻi. Ua noho ka poʻe Uro o Peru ma luna o ka wai o Lake Titicaca mai ka wā lōʻihi ma mua o ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka moʻomeheu Incan i mau tausani makahiki i hala. A aia ma luna pono o ka loko.
Kūkulu ka poʻe kamaʻāina i nā mokupuni ʻohe i kūkulu ai lākou i nā hale ʻohe a ma laila lākou e holo ai ma nā waʻa ʻohe nani. Laʻa lākou, hōʻiliʻili i nā ʻōmaʻomaʻo lana e ʻai a hopu a pana paha i nā manu no ka ʻai. ʻO kēia ko lākou ola, ʻoiai ke hoʻomaka nei ka poʻe ʻōpio e neʻe i kahakai a ma waho.
Malia paha ke ʻimi nei nā ʻōpio i ke kūpaʻa. Ua ʻike au i ka hele wāwae ʻana ma nā mokupuni ʻohe liʻiliʻi a pulupulu he mea paʻakikī, ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī ʻole e pale iā ʻoe mai ka paheʻe ʻana i ka wai hau. ʻOiai ke hoʻololi mau nei ka poʻe mokupuni i ka papa luna o ka ʻohe, ua ʻike ʻia ke hāʻule ʻana o nā keiki i ka wā i popopo ai nā ʻohe i lalo o ka mokupuni. ʻO nā kumu eucalyptus mānoanoa e heleuma i nā mokupuni i lalo o ka loko.
I ka lā hoʻoilo ʻulaʻula o Iulai, ua kiʻi kekahi kanaka Uro a me kāna keiki iaʻu me kaʻu kāne ma ka uapo e kū pono ana i ka Hotel Titlaka e nānā pono ana i ke kai o Puno, kahi a mākou i noho ai. He uliuli loa ka lani a me ka wai, a olinolino mai na mauna hau o Bolivia ma kahi mamao aku i ko makou lana ana mai ko makou hale kahakai o Hamptons o kahi hale hookipa a hiki i ka honua o na mokupuni ohe, i hoopihaia me na hale ohe e nana aku i ka nawaliwali o ka iliohae ino. hiki iā ia ke huhū a hoʻohuhū iā lākou i lalo.
Na Baluna Puma-Guma
I ka pae ʻana ma kekahi o nā mokupuni liʻiliʻi, he 50 kapuaʻi paha ka lōʻihi, ua ʻike mākou i kahi moʻomeheu kahiko a me nā keiki e puhi ana i nā baluna ʻulaʻula. Ua hānai mālie kekahi wahine kahiko i kona ʻaʻahu ʻulaʻula a me ke anuenue i kāna pēpē. Ua pāʻani nā kamaliʻi i ka pāʻani e like me ka tag i ka wā e paʻi ana ka ʻohe ma lalo o ko lākou mau wāwae. He makani anu ma luna o ka mokupuni.
Wahi a ka moʻolelo ua make ʻo Uro maʻemaʻe hope loa i 50 mau makahiki i hala. I kēia mau lā, he liʻiliʻi loa kā lākou gene pool, male pinepine ka Uro me ka poʻe Aymara a me Quechua.
I koʻu nānā ʻana i waho o ka mokupuni, ʻike ʻia ka loko o Titicaca i ka wā mau loa. ʻO ka loko hoʻokele kiʻekiʻe loa o ka honua he kai nui loa i uka a hiki i Bolivia. ʻO ka holo ʻana mai Puno a hiki i ka ʻāpana o ke kahakai ʻo Bolivia kahi kokoke loa i ke kapikala ʻo La Paz he huakaʻi ʻoi aku ma mua o 100 mau mile (160 kilomita). Aia ka palena o nā ʻāina ʻelua ma waena o ka loko.
ʻO kēlā laina wai e hoʻolilo i ka Lake Titicaca i wahi paʻa i ka pō, i ka wā e hele ai ka poʻe smugglers ma nā moku liʻiliʻi, e hoʻokele ana i nā hōkū a lawe i nā waiwai Bolivian i kūʻai ʻia e kūʻai aku ma nā mākeke kūloko ma Peru.
'All Contraband'
Me ke kahe ʻana o ka lawe ʻana mai i ke kānāwai, ʻo ka mākeke ma Juliaca, Peru - kahi aʻu i ʻike ai i nā pōpoki liʻiliʻi - ke ulu nei i nā lā Sābati.
“Hoʻopio. ʻO nā mea kūʻokoʻa āpau, "wahi a koʻu alakaʻi, ʻo Julio Suano.
"Ke hoʻopaʻa nei lākou i ka pepa toilet?" Ninau au.
"ʻOiaʻiʻo," wahi āna. “Pēlā hoʻi nā kaʻa kaʻa a me nā pahū Kina. A me ke kinoea. ʻEono kapu kinoea (ma kahi o $1.93) hoʻokahi lita ma Bolivia a he 15 kapu (ma kahi o $4.83) hoʻokahi lita ma aneʻi.
I kekahi lā aʻe, holo mākou i ka mokupuni nani ʻo Taquile. He mokupuni ʻoiaʻiʻo kēia, he pōhaku ʻoi a me nā ʻanuʻu ʻoi i kūkulu ʻia e ka Inca; o na kihapai gula, ka lepo momona a me na laau lau uliuli hohonu.
E hoʻohui i nā hale ʻulaʻula, a ua hiki ke hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia mai Tuscany, ʻoiai ʻaʻohe uila a me nā kaʻa. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Suano, ua kaʻawale ka poʻe mokupuni mai ka moʻomeheu hou a hiki i ka makahiki 1950.
Textile 'Masterpieces'
Hoʻokumu ʻia ka hoʻokele waiwai o Taquile ma luna o kahi kuʻuna lōʻihi o ka ulana lole ʻokoʻa i ʻehā mau makahiki i hala aku nei ua haʻi ʻo Unesco i ka mokupuni a me kāna kiʻi ʻo kekahi o 43 "Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritages of Humanity." Ua ulana lākou i kā lākou hana ʻoniʻoni ma nā lom paʻa a me nā pedal mai ka wā ma mua o Hepanika.
Ua hoʻokiʻekiʻe mākou i ke ala hoʻololi i hope i ka piko o ka mokupuni e ʻike i nā laʻana o nā mea hana. Ua aloha ʻo Miguel Cruz Qispe, kekahi o nā mea ulana kaulana loa o Taquile, i ko mākou waʻa a laila hoʻopaʻa maoli i nā ʻanuʻu pōhaku 535 ʻo ia ke ala ʻē aʻe i luna. Ua aloha hou mai ʻo ia iā mākou ma ka piko, ʻaʻole i pau ka hanu ma hope o ke ola o ka piʻi ʻana ma nā wahi kiʻekiʻe.
ʻO nā kāne, nā wāhine a me nā kamaliʻi, ulana pū a ulana pū, a ʻaʻahu i nā lole kuʻuna a lākou i hana ai. ʻIke ʻia ka poʻe ulana Taquile no ka chullo, he pāpale hili ʻia e nā kāne no nā kenekulia ʻeono i hala.
ʻO ka ʻulaʻula-ʻulaʻula chullo e hōʻike ana i ka loaʻa ʻana o ka male, ʻoiai ʻo ka ʻulaʻula āpau i lawe ʻia. ʻIke ʻia ka poʻe mokupuni no ke kāʻei kalena a nā kāne e ʻaʻahu ai, e hōʻike ana i nā kau, nā hana mahiʻai a me nā kuʻuna kūloko i ka makahiki.
Kumukuai Nui, Aole Haggle
He kiʻekiʻe nā kumukūʻai no Peru. Hiki i ke kā'ei 'alemanaka ko'iko'i ke hele no ka 'oi aku ma mua o $100, a me he mea lā ua li'ili'i ka makemake e kū'ai. Ma nā wahi ʻē aʻe ua kūʻai au i ʻeke i ulana lima ʻia mai kahi wahine ma kapa alanui no $5. ʻOiaʻiʻo, ʻaʻole ia he mea hana nui i koho ʻia e Unesco.
ʻO ka Hotel Titlaka hou, he hōkele hale kūʻai 18-suite, hele lōʻihi e hoʻoponopono i ka nele o nā hale maikaʻi a puni ka Lake Titicaca. Hāʻawi ka lumi liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi i kahi kāʻei kūpono no ke kiʻi ʻōiwi maoli e mohala ana ma kēlā me kēia kihi.
Loaʻa i kēlā me kēia suite kahi ʻauʻau wai nui, maikaʻi no nā ʻiʻo ʻeha ma hope o ka piʻi ʻana i Taquile, a me nā puka makani nānā loko. ʻO ka uku o $ 552- $ 725 no kēlā me kēia kanaka no ka pō e pili ana i ka papa piha a me nā cocktails a pau, nā mea inu hale a me ka waina me nā meaʻai, a me nā huakaʻi waʻa i nā mokupuni a me nā kipa alakaʻi i nā mākaʻikaʻi a me nā kauhale. E loaʻa i nā malihini e hoʻopaʻa ana no nā pō ʻelua i kahi pō hou.
Loaʻa nā kayak a me nā waʻa no ka hoʻohana malihini. Pēlā nā pahu oxygen, nāna i hoʻōla i kaʻu kāne i loko o ʻelima mau minuke ma hope o ka pō o ka maʻi kiʻekiʻe.
