ʻO ka huakaʻi huakaʻi a Piero Rossi Cairo: Mai ka Loio i ka Visionary Winemaker

Piero Rossi Kairo hoʻokele i ka ʻohana ʻo Tenuta Cucco winery. ʻAʻole maʻamau kāna huakaʻi mai ka loio ʻoihana i ka mea hana waina. I ka hoʻomaka ʻana he loio hui a loaʻa, ʻo ka hoʻololi ʻana o Cairo e hōʻike ana i ka liʻiliʻi o ia mau neʻe, i hōʻailona ʻia e nā luʻi e like me nā hoʻonohonoho akamai ʻokoʻa, nā hoʻopukapuka ʻoihana koʻikoʻi, nā noʻonoʻo kālā, a me ka hanohano o ka ʻoihana loio.

I ka makahiki 2015, ma ke noi a kona makuakāne, ua lawe ʻo Cairo i ka mana o Tenuta Cucco, a hoʻokomo iā ia i loko o ka ʻoihana mahiʻai ʻo La Raia. ʻO La Raia, he 180 mau ʻeka ma Novi Ligure, me 48 i hoʻolaʻa ʻia i nā kumu waina a me ka biodynamic i hōʻoia ʻia mai 2007, e hōʻike ana i ka makemake o Kairo no ka mahiʻai biodynamic a me ka mālama ʻana i nā biodiversity, i alakaʻi ʻia e kona kaikuahine. Aia i loko o ka ʻāina kahi paka o nā mea hana kiʻi, kahi hōkele hale kūʻai, a me kahi hale ʻaina gourmet, e ʻoi aku ana ma mua o nā palena o ka māla waina.

Mamua o ka Mana

Ua hoʻololi ka mōʻaukala o Tenuta Cucco i ka makahiki 1966 i ka wā i lawe ai ka ʻohana Stroppiana. I ka makahiki 2015, ua loaʻa i ka ʻohana Rossi Cairo, kaulana no kā lākou mahiʻai kūlohelohe a biodynamic ʻo La Raia, i ka ʻāina a ua kālele ʻo ia i ka hoʻohuli ʻana iā La Raia i kahi hōʻailona hana waina.

ʻO nā paʻakikī, ʻo ia ka hōʻailona hou ʻana mai ke kūʻai nui ʻana i ka hue waina a me ka hōʻike ʻana i ka holomua mālie akā paʻa mau o ka ʻoihana a me ka mahiʻai. ʻO nā kumu waina o La Raia, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā makahiki he kanahiku, e ulu ana i ka lepo pālolo-limestone, e hāʻawi ana i ke ʻano mineral kūʻokoʻa i nā hua waina Cortese. ʻO ka mahiʻai biodynamic, i hoʻomaka ʻia i ka makahiki 2002, ua ʻae ʻia ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i nā mea ʻano terroir, me Rossi Cairo e hoʻohana ana i ka manure ʻōmaʻomaʻo, ka manure kiwi, ke ana sulfur, a me ke keleawe i nā ana kūpono, a me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā traktor māmā no ka hana ma ka māla waina.

Hoʻonui ʻia ka manaʻo paʻa o La Raia i nā mea olaola, ʻike ʻia i ka hana ʻana i ʻekolu mau meli kūlohelohe. ʻO ka hana a Piero Rossi Cairo i ka hoʻokele ʻana iā Tenuta Cucco i nā hana hoʻomau e hōʻike ana ʻaʻole wale ke kuleana o ka nohona akā he kūpaʻa pū kekahi i ka hana ʻana i nā waina Barolo maoli e hōʻike ana i ka terroir o ka ʻāina.

ʻO La Raia, ma lalo o nā kuhikuhi a Piero Rossi Cairo, hoʻokomo i nā loina biodynamic, e mālama ana i ka māla waina ma ke ʻano he kaiaola ola ponoʻī. Ua hopena kēia ala i nā waina Gavi DOCG maikaʻi loa, e hōʻike ana i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana o ka moʻomeheu a me ke ʻano.

ʻO ke ala kūʻokoʻa o La Raia e pili ana i ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i ka DNA o nā ʻili hua waina no ke koho ʻana i ka hū hū maikaʻi, e hana ana i nā waina e hōʻike ana i ka terroir. Aia ma Gavi, ka waiwai, ka biodynamic i hōʻoia ʻia e Demeter, ʻaʻole wale ia e lawelawe ma ke ʻano he hale waina akā he hale nō hoʻi kahi kula Steiner a me ke kahua kiʻi.

Hoʻokumu ka hui Tenuta Cucco i ʻekolu mau ʻano Gavi DOCG a me ʻelua mau ʻano ʻulaʻula o Barbera DOC (Nebbiolo a me Barolo Nebbiolo), i hōʻoia ʻia mai ka makahiki 2018. he laʻana koʻikoʻi e hiki ke hana ʻia nā waina ʻokoʻa i ka wā e mālama ana i ke kaiapuni no nā hanauna e hiki mai ana.

Ko'u Manao Pilikino

1. Barolo DOCG. ʻO ka makahiki 2019

He waina kēia e hōʻike ana i ka hanohano a me ka nani. Me kāna hui ʻana o nā hua waina Nebbiolo mai ka māla waina ʻo Cerrati kaulana, ua hoʻokomo kēia waina i ke ʻano o ka inoa Barolo.

I loko o ke aniani, hōʻike ka waina i kahi kala ʻulaʻula ruby ​​​​me nā ʻalani ʻalani, kahi prelude o ka bouquet paʻakikī e kali nei. ʻO nā ʻala o nā rosa, nā mea kanu hou, a me nā hua ʻulaʻula oo, e like me ka cherry a me ka raspberry, e hui pū me nā ʻōlelo maʻalahi o ka violet, nā pua rose, a me kahi pā o ka honua, e hopu ana i ke ʻano o ka terroir.

Ma ka palale, hōʻike ka Barolo Cerrati 2019 i kahi kaulike kūlike o nā ʻono. Hoʻopili ʻia ke ʻano momona a velvety e nā tannin i hoʻohui maikaʻi ʻia, e hāʻawi ana i ke ʻano a me ka pono o ka makahiki. ʻO nā ʻāpana o nā hua ʻeleʻele, nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo o ka licorice, nā memo balsamic, ka ʻalani ʻalani, a me ka minerality maʻalahi e wehe ʻia, e hoʻopau ana i kahi hopena lōʻihi a lōʻihi e waiho ana i kahi manaʻo mau loa. He nani a hoʻohui maikaʻi nā tannins.

He hōʻike kēia waina i ka hoʻokele ʻana i ka māla waina a me ka ʻike hana waina ma Tenuta Cucco. Ua ʻelemakule maikaʻi ʻia ka waina i nā barela ʻoka, e hāʻawi ana i kona paʻakikī a hoʻohui i kahi paʻi hoʻomaʻemaʻe o nā mea ʻala a me nā nuances ʻoka.

He kūpono kēia waina no nā hanana kūikawā a i ʻole leʻaleʻa i nā manawa noʻonoʻo. ʻO kona ʻano manawa ʻole a me kona ʻano hōʻike e hoʻohālikelike ai i ka terroir Barolo.

2. La Raia Gavi DOCG. ʻO Vigna Madonnina 2020

Aia ka māla waina ʻo Madonnina ma loko o ka ʻāina ʻo La Raia. He kūpono loa ka lepo calcareous, pālolo, a marly no ka mahiʻai waina Cortese. ʻAʻohe mea momona a me nā huahana kemika nā māla waina. Kanu ʻia ka lepo me ka manure ʻōmaʻomaʻo (nā pīni ākea, ka pī, a me ka clover) i ka wā i ʻoki ʻia, e hoʻololi ʻia i mea momona a me humus.

ʻO kahi hōʻike hoʻohiwahiwa o ka inoa Gavi e hōʻike ana kēia waina i ka terroir kūʻokoʻa a me ka hana waina ma La Raia. Kaulana ʻo Gavi no ka hana ʻana i nā waina keʻokeʻo kiʻekiʻe, i hana mua ʻia mai ka hua waina Cortese.

I loko o ke aniani, hōʻike ka waina i kahi kala mauʻu-melemele ʻeleʻele me nā hiʻohiʻona ʻōmaʻomaʻo, e hōʻike ana i kona ʻano hou a me kona ʻano ʻōpio. Hoʻokipa koke ʻia ka ihu e kahi bouquet aromatic e hoʻohui i nā mea pua a me nā hua. ʻO nā leka nani o nā pua keʻokeʻo, e like me ka acacia a me ka jasmine, e hui pū me nā ʻala citrus e like me ka lemona a me ka ʻāpala ʻōmaʻomaʻo, e hana ana i kahi ʻike olfactory hoʻowalewale a hōʻoluʻolu.

Ma ka ʻāʻī, hāʻawi ia i kahi waha ʻoluʻolu a ola. Hāʻawi ka acidity māmā i kahi ʻano zesty, e hoʻonui ai i ka hou o ka waina. Hoʻohālikelike nā mea ʻono i ke ʻano ʻono, me ka nānā ʻana i nā hua citrus, ka pea ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a me kahi ʻōlelo maʻalahi o ka ʻalemona. He mea koʻikoʻi ka minerality, e hoʻohui ana i kahi papa ʻokoʻa o ka paʻakikī a hāʻawi i ke ʻano nani o ka waina.

He hōʻike kēia cuvée i ka hoʻokō ʻana o La Raia i nā hana kūlohelohe a biodynamic. ʻO ka māla waina, i hōʻoia ʻia e Demeter, hoʻoikaika i ka hoʻomau a me ka lokahi me nā kaiaola a puni. ʻO ka 2020 vintage, hōʻike i ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana o ka mea hana waina i ka mālama ʻana i ka ʻoiaʻiʻo o ka terroir Gavi.

Hoʻohui maikaʻi ʻo Gavi i ka moʻomeheu, terroir, a me ka loea hana waina hou. Hiki ke leʻaleʻa ʻia ma ke ʻano he aperitif hōʻoluʻolu a i hui pū ʻia me ka nui o nā kīʻaha, me ka iʻa iʻa, nā salakeke māmā, a i ʻole nā ​​moa ʻiʻo keʻokeʻo.

© Kauka Elinor Garely. ʻAʻole hiki ke kope ʻia kēia ʻatikala kope, me nā kiʻi, me ka ʻole o ka ʻae palapala ʻia mai ka mea kākau.

ʻO ka wehe ʻana i nā hoʻopukapuka ma nā wā e hiki mai ana i ka waina - leʻaleʻa, lapuwale, a i ʻole kahi neʻe akamai?