ʻO Band-E-Amir National Park, Afghanistan – Hōʻike ʻia nā moeʻuhane nui i ka ʻulaʻula ʻulaʻula o kēia mau loko mauna maikaʻi: ʻo ka makemake nui o Afghanistan e lilo i paradaiso mākaʻikaʻi.
Me ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana i kēia lā o ka paka ʻāina mua o ka ʻāina, i kūkulu ʻia i ʻeono mau loko i hoʻopili ʻia me nā pali travertine kupaianaha, ua hoʻolaha nā luna i ka manaʻolana e hoʻi mālie nā malihini i Afghanistan ma hope o ʻekolu mau makahiki o ke kaua.
ʻAʻohe wahi o kēia lāhui ma ka palapala ʻāina mākaʻikaʻi mai ka makahiki 1970. I kēlā mau lā, he wahi kaulana ia ma ke ala hippie, ʻo kāna ʻano Silk Road exoticism a me ka hashish haʻahaʻa he lure hiki ʻole ke pale aku.
I kēia mau lā, me kahi kipi i alakaʻi ʻia e Taliban, ke hoʻomau nei ka 'Oihana Moku'āina "e ʻōlelo ikaika aku i nā kamaʻāina ʻAmelika e kūʻē i ka huakaʻi i Afghanistan," me ka hoʻohui ʻana ʻaʻohe ʻāpana o ka ʻāina "e manaʻo ʻia he pale ʻole mai ka hana ʻino."
Eia nō naʻe, ʻo ʻAmelika ʻAmelika ʻo Karl Eikenberry kekahi o nā poʻe hanohano i hui pū i ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana i ka Band-e-Amir National Park, e haʻi ana i kahi anaina o nā VIP a me nā kamaʻāina i ʻākoakoa ʻia ma lalo o kahi hale lole i hōʻailona ʻia ka manawa he "manawa haʻaheo no Afghanistan . . . he ala hou ana.
Aia ka paka ma ka ʻāina ʻo Bamian, ma waena o Afghanistan, i ʻike ʻia no ka nani ʻē aʻe o kona ʻāina a me ka nele o ka hana ʻino. Akā ʻo nā awāwa i hoʻomālamalama ʻia e ka lā o ka panalāʻau he wahi pōʻeleʻele i hala.
I ka makahiki 2001, ua lilo ka luku ʻia ʻana e ka Taliban i nā kiʻi Buddha nunui o Bamian i hōʻailona o ke aupuni repressive. I ka hopena o nā makahiki 1990, ʻo ka hapa liʻiliʻi ʻo Hazaras ma Bamian a me nā wahi ʻē aʻe ka pahuhopu o ka hoʻokahe koko lāhui.
ʻO ka hoʻokumu ʻana i kahi paka ʻāina ma Band-e-Amir ka hopena o 35 mau makahiki o ka hoʻoikaika ʻana e Afghan a me nā hui honua, i hoʻopau pinepine ʻia e ke kaua a hoʻoweliweli ʻia i kekahi manawa e kahi papahana hydroelectric i manaʻo ʻia. ʻO ia ka mea i hele nui ʻia ma o ka hoʻoikaika ʻana o ke kiaʻāina wahine ikaika o ka mokuʻāina, ʻo Habiba Sarabi, ka mea i hele mai no ka hoʻolaʻa.
No nā kenekulia, ʻo nā pūʻali hoʻouka kaua ka hapa nui o nā malihini kipa o Afghanistan. Hiki ke helu ʻia i kēia manawa he mau mea mākaʻikaʻi wale nō, akā ua lōʻihi ka lōʻihi o Bamian no nā ʻohana Afghan, me nā limahana kōkua haole a me nā malihini ʻē aʻe.
"Ke manaʻo nei au e nui aʻe ka poʻe e hele mai i ko lākou ʻike ʻana he kihi paʻa loa kēia o ka ʻāina," wahi a Sher Husain, nona ka hōkele e nānā aku nei i nā niches hakahaka kahi i kū ai nā Buddha.
I ka manawa e palekana ai ʻo Afghanistan holoʻokoʻa no ka mea huakaʻi hele, ʻo Eikenberry - he pūʻali koa koa hōkū ʻekolu a he kanaka koa o ke kaua Afghan ma mua o ka lawe ʻana i kāna ʻelele - ua hoʻomaopopo ʻo ia, "E hiki mai ana ka manawa."
Eia nō naʻe, ʻo nā hiʻohiʻona nani o ka paka ka mea e hoʻāla ai i kahi mea laʻa ma Afghanistan: ʻo ka manaʻo o ka frolic. Ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka loko, ua piʻi ka ʻelele i loko o kahi waʻa pedal me ke ʻano o ka pedal a lawe i ka hope pelekikena o ka ʻāina, ʻo Karim Khalili, no ka wili.
ʻAʻole hiki ke komo i ka Band-e-Amir; ʻO ka hele ʻana i ʻaneʻi e pono ai kahi huakaʻi hele 10 mau hola ma waena o nā pae mauna ʻelua mai ke kapikala ʻo Kabul, ma kahi o 110 mau mile i ka hikina. Ua manaʻo ʻia kahi papahana alanui i kākoʻo ʻia e ʻAmelika e hoʻopōkole i kēlā huakaʻi i ʻekolu hola.
E hauʻoli kekahi i ka ʻike ʻana i ka waiho ʻana o ia wahi ma waho o ke ala i hoʻokuʻu ʻia, me ka makaʻu i kona kaiaola palupalu.
Ua hoʻomanaʻo ʻo Marnie Gustavson, he ʻAmelika nāna e hoʻokele i kahi hui waiwai ʻole ma Kabul e hana pū ana me nā poʻe Afghan pōʻino, i ka kipa ʻana i nā loko i kona wā kamaliʻi i ka makahiki 1960 me kona mau mākua, he poʻe hana hoʻomohala. Ua wehewehe ʻo ia i ka ʻauʻau ʻana i nā loko crystalline ma hope o kahi huakaʻi lōʻihi a me ka lepo lepo he "magical."
"Maikaʻi kekahi hoʻomohala ʻana i nā mākaʻikaʻi, no ka mea e kōkua ia i ka poʻe kūloko a me ka hoʻokele waiwai kūloko," wahi āna. "ʻAʻole nui loa."
