Gigondas AOC = Leʻaleʻa

ʻOiai ka inoa “Gigondas"ʻaʻole unuhi pololei i ka "leʻaleʻa" ma ka ʻōlelo Latina, ʻo kēia ʻōlelo hoʻohālike e hōʻike ana i ka hoʻokomo ʻana iā Gigondas AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee) waina lawe mai i kahi ʻike leʻaleʻa.

ʻO ka ʻāina hana waina ʻo Gigondas kahi hoalauna i ka Chateauneuf-du-Pape kaulana a hāʻawi i kahi koho hoihoi no ka poʻe hoihoi o Grenache a me Syrah varietal, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka koho kālā. ʻO ka mea ʻokoʻa ma waena o Gigondas a me kona hoalauna kaulana aia i ka ʻano lepo. ʻAʻole like me ka Chateauneuf-du-Pape gravely, haʻaheo ʻo Gigondas i kahi lepo momona i ka limestone a me ke one. Hoʻohui ʻia, ʻo ke kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe a me ka verticality o nā māla waina ʻo Gigondas e kōkua i ka ʻokoʻa o kona terroir.

Nānā i hope

ʻO nā aʻa mōʻaukala o ka ʻāina ʻo Cotes du Rhone Farani, kahi i kū ai ʻo Gigondas, hoʻi i ka wā Roma. Ua hoʻokumu mua ʻia ma ke ʻano he kahua leʻaleʻa no nā koa o ka Legion ʻElua o ka Emepera Roma, ua mahi kēia ʻāina i nā waina i hoʻomau ʻia no nā makahiki he mau makahiki, ʻoiai e loaʻa ana ka ʻike ʻia me ka mekala ma ka hale mahiʻai Parisian ma 1894.

A hiki i ka hopena o ke kenekulia 19, ua kaulana ia wahi no kāna waina i ka wā i hoʻouka ai ka maʻi waina o Phylloxera, he aphid mai ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa i nā aʻa o nā kumu waina. Ua laha koke ia i Rhone a me Gigondas, pepehi i na malawaina he nui a hooweliweli aku i ka oihana holookoa. Ua lawe mai ke aupuni Palani i ka poe akamai a me na kanaka epekema e noii i keia ma'i hou e imi ana i ka hooponopono, a ua haawi aku i ka uku dala i ka poe i loaa ka laau lapaau.

Ua hōʻea mai ka lāʻau lapaʻau ma ke ʻano o Charles V. Riley, he kanaka hulihonua mai Missouri, nāna i hoʻoholo e hiki ke hoʻopili ʻia nā kumu waina ʻEulopa ma nā aʻa waina ʻAmelika a ua kū maoli nā aʻa ʻAmelika iā Phylloxera e hāʻawi ana i ka palekana i nā ʻano ʻEulopa. Me ka lohi, ua hoʻomaka ke kaʻina o ka kanu hou ʻana i nā māla waina ma Farani a me Gigondas.

Ka hopena o ke aniau

Lawe mai ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā pilikia paʻakikī i nā wahi waina a puni ka honua.

No kekahi mau hale kūʻai waina ma ka ʻāina ʻo Gigondas, ua lawe mai ke kūlana i ka kūleʻa i manaʻo ʻole ʻia. Me ka piʻi ʻana o ka mahana o ka makahiki, e ulu ana nā māla waina ma mua, e oʻo ana i nā hua waina a me ka wikiwiki ʻole. ʻOi aku ka lokomaikaʻi a hoʻopaʻa ʻia akā hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻia e kahi microclimate ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, ʻo nā waina mai kēia mau māla waina pilikia i kēia manawa he mau hōʻailona no ka Domaine.

ʻO ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa maikaʻi ʻana o nā hua waina e pili ana i ka panoply o nā kumu; ʻO ke kiʻekiʻe, ka ʻike ʻana, a me ka hoʻonohonoho ʻana i ka lā, kona ʻanuʻu, latitu, kahe ʻana o ka ea, a me nā wahi e pili ana i kona microclimate. I nā kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe, akā naʻe, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka mahana. ʻO ka piʻi ʻana o ke anuanu e hoʻolōʻihi i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka ʻōpuʻu ʻana, a ʻo ke ala ala ʻana o nā kumu waina mai ka hoʻoilo hoʻoilo e hāʻawi i nā hua waina i kahi ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi a paʻa i ke oʻo. Hoʻopilikia pū ka mahana i ka pala—ʻo ka manawa a pehea e hōʻiliʻili ai nā hua waina i ke kō e loaʻa ai ka nui o ka waiʻona i makemake ʻia, akā ʻono hoʻi i ka pala a me ka phenolic oʻo o nā ʻili a me nā tannins.

Ke kanu ʻia nei nā kumu waina ma nā kiʻekiʻe ma waena o 820–1,640 kapuaʻi. ʻAʻole i wehewehe ʻia ke ea o ka ʻāina e ke kiʻekiʻe. Ma waho aʻe o ke kiʻekiʻe, ʻo ka mana o ka ea e kahe ana mai nā puʻu a puni a me Mont Ventoux, a me ka ululāʻau e hoʻopuni ana i kahi waihona o ka ea ʻoluʻolu e lele ana i lalo i nā kumu waina i ka pō.

ʻO ia ka hua waina

Lawe ʻo Grenache i waena o ka hana waina ʻo Gigondas, ʻo ia ka 70-80 pakeneka o ka haku waina. Hoʻokani ʻo Syrah lāua ʻo Mourvedre i nā kuleana kākoʻo, aʻo ka hoʻokomo ʻana o 10 pakeneka Carignan e hoʻohui i kahi paʻi kūʻokoʻa i ka ʻono ʻono. Hōʻike ʻia ma ke ʻano he lepo, ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a velvety me nā memo o ka blackberry jam, ua hoʻohiki ʻo Gigondas i kahi ʻike ʻono kūʻokoʻa a poina ʻole.

ʻO ka hua kiʻekiʻe i ʻae ʻia o ka inoa ʻo Gigondas (36/hl/ha) kekahi o nā haʻahaʻa loa ma Farani. Hana maikaʻi kēlā me kēia mea lawelawe i kā lākou waina ma ko lākou ala ponoʻī, e hoʻolaʻa i nā ʻano hua waina i kahi kaʻawale a i hui pū ʻia paha, me ka manawa maceration o 2-4 mau pule, e pili ana i ka waina a me ke koho ʻana o kēlā me kēia mea kanu. ʻO nā waina he hapa kahiko i ke kila kila no ka mālama ʻana i ka ʻike hua a ʻāpana i loko o nā pahu lāʻau a me nā barela ʻoka e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i nā tannins. Ma hope o nā mahina he nui, hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā waina.

Ka hooponopono ana o ka malawaina

Ma ke ʻano o ka ʻāina waina nui, hāʻule ʻo Gigondas ma lalo o ka malu o nā inoa 360 o Farani. E alakaʻi ʻia e kahi ʻōnaehana hoʻoponopono pono e alakaʻi ʻia ka hana waina, mai nā ʻano hua waina a hiki i nā pae waiʻona liʻiliʻi, nā koi ʻelemakule, a me ka nui o ke kanu ʻana i ka māla waina. Ke manaʻo nei kēia ʻōnaehana e hōʻoia i ka hana ʻana o nā waina maikaʻi loa i loko o nā wahi i wehewehe ʻia i ke kānāwai, e hāʻawi ana i ka maopopo i nā mea kūʻai aku e pili ana i ke kumu a me nā ʻano hana o nā waina a lākou e hauʻoli ai. ʻO ka mea nui, ʻaʻole lilo ʻo Gigondas i waina wale nō akā he mea hōʻoia i ke akamai a me ka ʻepekema o ka hana waina, e kono ana i nā mea kūʻai aku e ʻoliʻoli i kahi huakaʻi leʻaleʻa ma o kāna mōʻaukala waiwai, terroir, a me nā ʻono ʻokoʻa.

Hoʻonui i ka Laina Huahana

Ma ka Poaha, Kepakemapa 8, 2022, ua koho lokahi ka National Institute for Origin and Quality (NAO) i kahi noi e hoʻonui i ka AOI Gigondas i nā waina keʻokeʻo, kahi hoʻoholo i 11 mau makahiki i ka hana ʻana. Ma 2011, ua hoʻomaka ʻo Gigondas Producers Organization (ODG) i kahi hui hana o nā mea kanu waina a me nā négocians e nānā i ka pilikia, a ua hoʻomaka ʻia nā hoʻokolohua me nā hua waina keʻokeʻo i ulu ʻia ma nā wahi like ʻole o ka inoa inoa. Ma 2018 ka maikaʻi o nā hoʻokolohua i koi i ka papa o ka hui e ʻae i nā hoʻolālā e hoʻololi i nā kikoʻī hana. Ua noi ʻia ʻo Clairette blanc e lilo i ʻano hua waina nui (ma ka liʻiliʻi he 70 pakeneka), i hoʻomoʻa ʻia ma kāna iho a i hui pū ʻia me nā ʻano hua waina kahiko o Rhone Valley i ulu ma Gigondas. ʻElua mau ʻano hua waina ʻelua, ʻo Viognier a me Ugni blanc ʻaʻole hiki ke hōʻike i ka ʻoi aku ma mua o 5 pakeneka o ka laulā varietal.

Manaʻo nā mea hana waina e loaʻa i kā lākou mau waina keʻokeʻo ka mahalo like me nā ʻulaʻula. ʻO Clairette ka hōkū waina keʻokeʻo o ka ʻāina i kanu nui ʻia ma ke awāwa ʻo Rhone a ma Languedoc kahi e hana ai i nā ʻano waina keʻokeʻo a ʻālohilohi. Kuhi ʻia nā hoʻokuʻu mua e hiki i nā mea kūʻai aku ma 2024.

Ma Ko'u Manao Pilikino

Ma kahi papa kumu waina hou ma New York City, ua ʻike au i nā waina o Gigondas. ʻO kaʻu mau punahele he:

1. 2016 Château de Saint Cosme. Gigondas. Terroir. Limestone marl a me Miocene one. ʻO nā ʻano hua waina: 70% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 1% Cinsault. ʻO 12 mau mahina ʻelemakule i loko o nā pahu hou (20 pakeneka), i loko o nā pahu i hoʻohana ʻia 1-4 mau waina (20 pākēneka), i loko o nā pahu pahu (30 pakeneka).

ʻO kēia ka ʻāina koʻikoʻi ma Gigondas e hoʻopuka ana i nā waina benchmark o ka inoa. Ua hana ʻia nā waina ma kēia pūnaewele mai ka wā Roma (ke kenekulia 14) i ʻike ʻia e nā pahu Gallo-Roman kahiko i kālai ʻia i loko o ka limestone ma lalo o ka hale pule. Aia ka waiwai i ka lima o ka ʻohana o Louis Barruol mai ka makahiki 1570.

ʻO Henri kekahi o ka mea mua ma ka ʻāina i hana ma ke ʻano hoʻomaka i ka makahiki 1970. Ua alakaʻi ʻo Louis Barruol i ke alakaʻi ma 1992 a ua hoʻoneʻe i ke kaʻina hana i ka maikaʻi, me ka hoʻohui ʻana i kahi lima negociant i ka ʻoihana ma 1997.

Notes

Hoʻopiʻi kēia waina mai ka nānā mua ʻana, e hōʻike ana i kahi hue ʻulaʻula beet-ʻulaʻula nani e hoʻololi maikaʻi ana i kahi ʻōmaʻomaʻo ma ka ʻaoʻao. Hōʻike kēia hōʻike hiʻohiʻona i ke ʻano nuanced a me ke ʻano o ka waina. ʻO nā ʻala ʻala e aloha ai i ka ihu, he ʻāpana paʻakikī ia, e hāʻawi ana i kahi huakaʻi naʻau ma nā ʻāpana o nā hua ʻeleʻele, evocative gingerbread, luscious blackberries, kahi hōʻailona maʻalahi o ka pepa, lepo, a me ka ʻala hoʻowalewale o ka ʻili lāʻau pulu.

Ma ka palate, wehe ka waina me kahi symphony o nā tannins, e hāʻawi ana kēlā me kēia i ka paʻa o ka waina. ʻO kēia mau tannins, i kēia manawa, ʻaʻole ikaika loa; akā, hāʻawi lākou i kahi papa hana e alakaʻi i ka ʻike ʻono. ʻO ka hoʻopauʻana he hōʻailona ia i ka oʻoʻana o nā hua wainaʻulaʻula, e hoʻomau ana i ka palale ma keʻano kūpono a hoʻomau. Ke waiho nei nā huawaina ʻulaʻula i oʻo loa i kahi manaʻo mau loa, e hōʻike ana i ka hohonu a me ke oʻo o ka waina.

ʻO ka hui pū ʻana o nā hua ʻeleʻele a me nā memo mahana a hōʻoluʻolu o ka gingerbread e hana i kahi ʻokoʻa leʻaleʻa, e hoʻohui i nā papa o ka paʻakikī i ka ʻike ʻono. ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻia ʻana o nā ʻeleʻele e hoʻolauna i kahi mea momona a me ka momona, ʻoiai ʻo ke ʻano maʻalahi o ka pepa e lawe mai i kahi paʻi o nā mea ʻala, e hāʻawi ana i ke koena holoʻokoʻa o ka waina.

ʻO nā ʻōlelo lepo a me ka ʻala ʻokoʻa o ka ʻili o ka nahele nahele e hoʻopili hou i ka waina i kona terroir, e hoʻopaʻa ʻia i kahi ʻano o kahi. Hāʻawi kēia pilina i ka ʻāina i kahi ʻano kūʻokoʻa a ʻoiaʻiʻo hoʻi i ka Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2016, e hōʻike maoli ana i ke ʻano o ka māla waina.

I ka hōʻuluʻulu ʻana, ʻo kēia Gigondas 2016 kahi haku mele o nā mea ʻono a me nā mea ʻala, e hōʻike ana i ka hana kiʻi o ka hana waina ma Château de Saint Cosme. Mai kona waihoʻoluʻu ʻoluʻolu a hiki i ka hui pū ʻana o nā mea ʻala a me ka hoʻopau ʻana, hāʻawi kēlā me kēia mea i kahi waina ʻaʻole ia he mea leʻaleʻa wale nō akā he hōʻike hoʻi i ka hoʻokō ʻana o ka māla waina i ka hana ʻana i nā waina o ke ʻano maikaʻi a me ke ʻano.

2. 2016. Domaine la Boussiere. Kuʻuna Gigondas. Terroir: pālolo, limestone, hōʻike komohana komohana, aia ma 350 m kiʻekiʻe. Nā ʻano hua waina. Grenache (66 pakeneka), Syrah (34 pakeneka). ʻO ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i loko o ka pahu (35 pākēneka), i nā kumu lāʻau ʻoka (65 pākēneka)

ʻO kēia waina ka huahana o ka māla waina i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma kahi pā pōhaku e kū pono ana i ke kua o nā mauna Dentelles. Mālama ʻia ka terroir kūʻokoʻa mai ka lā ma waena o Kekemapa a me ka hopena o Ianuali, kahi manawa e moe ai nā kumu waina. Hoʻopili ka dormancy pōmaikaʻi me ka ʻole o ka lā, e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ana i ke koʻikoʻi liʻiliʻi i nā kumu waina i kēia manawa koʻikoʻi.

ʻO nā kumu waina iā lākou iho, nā makahiki ma waena o 30 a me 50 mau makahiki, ke kaena nei i nā hua haʻahaʻa, e hāʻawi ana i ka noʻonoʻo a me ka ikaika o nā hua waina. ʻO ka mea nui, mālama ʻo Domaine La Boussiere i ka ʻokoʻa o ka Domaine hope loa ma Gigondas e hoʻomaka i kāna ʻohi. ʻO kēia lohi ka hopena o ka hui ʻana o ka ʻike maikaʻi loa a me ke kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe, e hānai ana i ka lohi a me ka oʻo ʻana o nā hua waina. Hāʻawi kēia wā oʻo lōʻihi i ka nani a me ka hou i ka waina hope, e hoʻokaʻawale iā ia mai nā mea ʻē aʻe o ka ʻāina.

ʻO ka hoʻokō ʻana i ka mahiʻai organik he pōhaku kihi o ka ʻohana mai ka makahiki 1980. Mālama ʻia ka māla waina me nā mea kanu kūlohelohe, a ua hoʻohana ʻia nā sulfate liʻiliʻi, e hōʻike ana i ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana i nā hana hoʻomau a me ka ʻike kaiapuni. ʻO ka ʻohi ʻana he hana maʻalahi, lima lima, me kēlā me kēia hua waina e koho pono ʻia e ka lima.

ʻO ke kaʻina hana waina ma Domaine La Boussiere e hōʻike ana i kahi manaʻo kūlohelohe a me ka ʻole o ka hoʻokō. Hoʻohana ʻia ke kahe umekaumaha mai ka pahu a i ka barela, e kūʻē i ka pahū ʻana, e hōʻoia ana i ka mālama ʻana i ka waina. Hāʻawi kēia ʻano hana i ka mālama ʻana i nā mea ʻono a me nā mea ʻala o ka waina.

Hoʻopili ʻia ʻo Vinification me ka hoʻohiki e ʻae i kēlā me kēia waina e hōʻike maoli iā ia iho. Hoʻololi nā mea hana waina i kā lākou ʻenehana e pili ana i nā hiʻohiʻona kūʻokoʻa o kēlā me kēia varietal, e ʻae ana i ka waina e kuhikuhi i ke ʻano o ka fermentation a me ka ʻelemakule. ʻO kēia ala i hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ka hopena i nā waina e hōʻike maoli ana i nā nuances o ka wā ulu.

ʻAʻole i hoʻopaʻi ʻia a i kānana ʻia, mālama nā waina mai Domaine La Boussiere i ko lākou ʻano maoli a me ka kūpaʻa. ʻO kēia ʻano hana lima lima, i hui pū ʻia me nā hana kūlohelohe o ka ʻāina a me ka hoʻokele ʻana i ka māla waina, hoʻopau i ka hana ʻana o ka Gigondas Tradition 2016 - he waina ʻaʻole e hopu wale i ke ʻano o ka terroir akā e hoʻokomo pū ana i ka paʻa paʻa ʻole o ka ʻohana i ka hana hana a me ka hoʻomau.

Notes

ʻO Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Tradition 2016 he waina hoʻohiwahiwa e hoʻopili ai i ka naʻau me kona hue mahogany hohonu, kokoke i ka ʻeleʻele. Hōʻike ke kala momona i ka paʻakikī e kali ana i kēlā me kēia sip. ʻO ka ʻala he symphony o nā mea ʻala, e hōʻike nui ana i ke kinamona, e hui pū me ka ʻala ʻono a hoʻowalewale o nā cherries ʻulaʻula pala.

I ka ʻai mua ʻana, hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻia ka palale i kahi medley o nā mea ʻono e hulahula like. ʻO nā memo koʻikoʻi o nā cherries ʻeleʻele a me nā plums e hāʻawi i kahi ʻono maikaʻi, aʻo nā leo liʻiliʻi o nā pua e hoʻohui i kahi papa o ka maʻalahi i ka ʻike holoʻokoʻa. ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo o ka minerality e hoʻolauna i kahi ʻano lepo maikaʻi, e hāʻawi ana i ka hohonu o ka waina.

ʻO ka mea e hoʻokaʻawale ai i kēia waina ʻo kāna mau tannins i kaulike maikaʻi ʻia, e hoʻohui i ka hale me ka ʻole o ka hoʻoulu ʻana i ka palate. Hāʻawi nā tannins i kahi ʻano velvety e hoʻonui ai i ka waha holoʻokoʻa, e lilo ia i waina nani a leʻaleʻa.

He kūpono loa kēia Gigondas Tradition 2016 no ka poʻe hoihoi e mahalo ana i ka waina e mare ana i ka ʻala me nā ʻala ʻulaʻula o nā cherries. ʻO ke ʻano lush o ka waina e lilo ia i hoa maikaʻi loa no ka poʻe e hauʻoli nei i nā kiʻi wiwo ʻole a me ka ʻono.

I ka hōʻuluʻulu ʻana, ʻo Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Tradition 2016 he waina o ka hohonu a me ka paʻakikī, e hāʻawi ana i kahi huakaʻi ʻike ma o kāna mau ʻala hoʻowalewale, nā ʻono momona, a me nā tannin i hoʻohui maikaʻi ʻia. He mea hōʻike ia i ka hana a me ka hoʻolaʻa ʻana o nā mea hana waina, e lilo ia i koho maikaʻi loa no ka poʻe e ʻimi nei i kahi ʻike waina poina ʻole.

© Kauka Elinor Garely. ʻAʻole hiki ke kope ʻia kēia ʻatikala kope, me nā kiʻi, me ka ʻole o ka ʻae palapala ʻia mai ka mea kākau.