E lana ana i ka Mekong

Ua loli maoli nā mea ma Ho Chi Minh City. Akā, ʻo wau nō hoʻi - i ka manawa hope aʻu i hele ai ma ʻaneʻi, ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua huakaʻi au ma ke kaʻa a me ka cyclo kūloko, koʻu puʻuwai i loko o koʻu waha i ka hui ʻana o nā kaʻa a me nā mea hele wāwae i ka wikiwiki suicidal ma nā alanui i haehae ʻia o kahi Saigon i manaʻo nui. o ka wā hou akā aia nō naʻe i loko o ke kaʻina "hoʻomohala".

I kēia lā, ʻokoʻa koʻu ʻano kaʻa. Hālāwai au a alakaʻi ʻia i kahi Mercedes-Benz ʻālohilohi no ka holo ʻana i ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka hoʻoluʻolu ʻoluʻolu ma ke kūlanakauhale a me ka hema a hiki i koʻu huakaʻi, i loko o ka puʻuwai o ka Mekong Delta. Ke hōʻike nei ka huakaʻi i ke ao nei i kēia manawa ke kāhili nei ʻo Vietnam i kāna ʻapo ʻana; ʻOi aku ka nui o nā kaʻa Iapana a me nā moped ma mua o nā kaʻa he ʻumi a hoʻokahi, ʻo nā hale kūʻai kamepiula a me nā wahi kiʻekiʻe e ulu aʻe ma ke kūlanakauhale, akā ʻo ka haunaele maʻamau o ka hui ʻana o nā kaʻa a me nā poʻe hele wāwae e hoʻomau nei i koʻu puʻuwai.

Ma waho o ke kūlanakauhale, ua ʻike hou ʻia kahi mele kahiko; ʻoi aku ka hou o nā alanui a mālama maikaʻi ʻia, akā ʻo nā hale kūʻai huaʻai e pili ana, nā māla ʻōmaʻomaʻo ākea, ka piʻi mau a hāʻule i ka wā e poʻo ai mākou ma luna o nā kahawai a i ʻole nā ​​kahawai ma nā alahaka paʻa, e ʻike ana i nā waʻa lōʻihi holo lima a me nā moku raiki nui - he mau kiʻi Delta kēia. aole loa e nalo. Pono nā kahawai nui ʻelua e hele ma ka waʻa, a me ka haʻalele ʻana i waho o ke kaʻa ma ke kaʻa kaʻa e kū nei i mua me nā kamaʻāina ʻakaʻaka i hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā mopeds me nā hua a i ʻole nā ​​lālā o ka ʻohana, ʻike wau hiki iaʻu ke hoʻi i kaʻu huakaʻi mua. ma keia aina hoouluhua.

Hōʻike nā kau i ke kahe o ka muliwai
ʻO ka Mekong Delta ka hīnaʻi laiki o Vietnam, e hana ana i ka laiki e hānai ai i ka ʻāina āpau a lawa nā koena no ka lawe ʻana aku. ʻO kāna mea lokomaikaʻi ʻo Mekong Song Cuu Long - "ka muliwai ʻo Nine Dragons" e like me ka Vietnamese i kapa ai - no ka mea i ka manawa i komo ai i ka ʻāina ma hope o kāna huakaʻi lōʻihi mai ka Tibetan Plateau, ua māhele ʻia i ʻelua mau ala wai nui - ka ʻO Hau Giang, a i ʻole ka muliwai ʻo Lower, i kapa ʻia ʻo Bassac, a me ka Tien Giang, a i ʻole ka muliwai luna, e kahe ana i ke Kai Kina Hema ma ʻelima mau kiko.

ʻO ka lua o ko mākou mau moku moku e haʻalele iā mākou ma ke kapa hema o Bassac, mai kahi o ʻelima mau minuke kaʻa e lawe ai iā mākou i ka puka ʻiliʻili o ka Victoria Can Tho Hotel. ʻO kāna hana hoʻolālā colonial Farani i hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia i ka makahiki 1930, ka lobby colonnaded, a me nā mea hoʻokiʻekiʻe hoʻohuli liʻiliʻi e hoʻihoʻi iaʻu i kahi honua o ka pono, nā mea kanu, a me French Indochina, akā he mea kupanaha ua kūkulu ʻia ʻo Victoria Can Tho mai ka wā ʻuʻuku ma mua o hoʻokahi makahiki i hala. ma kahi pā paddy e kū pono ana i ke kūlanakauhale nui ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai ʻo Can Tho. ʻO ia ma kahi lōʻihi loa ka hale hokele nani loa e ʻike ʻia ma ka ʻāina ʻo Mekong Delta, e hāʻawi ana i ka meaʻai Farani o ka maikaʻi loa; kahi pā colonial nui me kahi papaʻaina; nā keʻena spa; kahua tennis; a me ka wai ʻauʻau… ʻaʻohe mea e like me ka mea i hana ʻia ma ka Delta ma mua i ka wā i kūkulu ʻia ai ma kahi o ʻumi makahiki i hala.

Ke hoʻihoʻi hou nei ke aupuni i 30 mau mika o ka ʻāina ma ka muliwai ma ke alo pono o ka hōkele a no nā haneli mau mika ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua, me ka manaʻo e hoʻololi ia i kahi huakaʻi e like me ka paka. E hoʻolimalima ka hōkele i ka ʻāina i mua o ko lākou waiwai a hoʻohana iā ia e hoʻolōʻihi i ko lākou wai ʻauʻau, hana i kahi keʻena spa hou, a me ka hale ʻaina kai hōʻikeʻike i ka muliwai - ʻo ia mau mea a pau e kamaʻilio nui e pili ana i ka kūleʻa o ka hui Victoria i ka wānana ʻana i kēia kala kala. , ʻo ka ʻāina hoihoi o ka hema o Vietnam e lilo i wahi kaulana no ka poʻe mākaʻikaʻi kiʻekiʻe, a me ka poʻe backpackers.

A no ke aha i kaulana ai ʻo Can Tho i waena o nā mākaʻikaʻi a me nā huakaʻi? No ka ʻike ʻana, hoʻopaʻa wau i kahi huakaʻi kakahiaka nui ma ka moku laiki i hoʻololi ʻia e Victoria, ʻo ka Lady Hau - 20 mau minuke o ka holo ʻoluʻolu, kofe a me ka croissant ma ka lima, a piʻi i ka muliwai ʻo Can Tho a hiki i ka Cai Rang Floating Market kaulana. Ma mua o ka wanaʻao i kēlā me kēia lā, hiki mai nā waʻa nui mai ka ʻāina ʻo Delta e kūʻai aku i nā huahana he nui i ka poʻe nona nā waʻa liʻiliʻi a laila hoe i nā kahawai liʻiliʻi he nui a me nā ala wai e hana ai i kahi ʻupena wai nui a paʻakikī a puni ke kūlanakauhale nui, me ka hoʻōho ʻana i kā lākou mau mea kūʻai. i nā ʻohana ʻaoʻao kahawai i ko lākou hele ʻana.

ʻO ka hīnaʻi laiki o Vietnam
ʻO ke ʻano o ke ola i loli iki i loko o nā makahiki he mau makahiki - ma kahi ʻāina i piha ka wai, nā kau i wehewehe ʻia e ka piʻi ʻana a me ka hāʻule ʻana o ka kahe nui o ka Mekong, ke ala maikaʻi loa e kipa aku ai i nā hoaaloha a me nā ʻohana, ka lawe ʻana i nā waiwai. , ʻo ka hana ʻana i kekahi mea, ma ka wai.

I kēia manawa o ka makahiki, piha nā waʻa i ka mākeke lana i ka ʻuala, ke kāpeti, kāloti, a me nā ʻolika puna, a me nā pineapples, nā hua deragona, nā ʻāpala custard, a me nā hua ʻai. He cornucopia o nā huaʻai hou a me nā mea kanu, e hōʻike ana i ka fecundity o ka lepo alluvial e uhi ana i ka Delta, i hoʻopiha ʻia i kēlā me kēia makahiki i ka wā e haki ai ka Mekong i kona mau kapa a me nā waikahe, e waiho ana i kahi papa hou o ka lepo momona i loko o nā aʻa he nui.

Hoʻololi wau i kahi moku lōʻihi liʻiliʻi me kahi kaikamahine ʻōpio nona ka inoa ʻo Thoai Anh, nāna e alakaʻi noʻu. Ke hele nei nā moku liʻiliʻi me nā lumi kuke hāmama i waena o ka poʻe kūʻai aku a me nā mea kūʻai aku, e hāʻawi ana i nā meaʻai noodle wela a me ka ʻaina awakea no ka poʻe hele ma ka mākeke. Hoʻopuka nā ʻenekini o nā waʻa nui i nā kipaku staccato hohonu, e like me nā elepani paʻa i ka wikiwiki, ʻoiai nā waʻa liʻiliʻi e kani ana e like me nā makika nunui - paʻakikī ke ʻike i kahi e nānā ai, nui nā mea e hana nei a puni ʻoe.

I ka hopena, haʻalele mākou i ka mākeke a huli i kahi kahawai ʻaoʻao. Hele mākou i kahi hale hana laiki, holo ʻohana, me ʻewalu mau lālā e hana maʻamau, kēlā me kēia me kāna hana ponoʻī. Hoʻomoʻu mua ʻia ka laiki i ka wai, a laila hana ʻia i palaoa laiki, i hui ʻia me 50/50 me ka tapioka raiki, a laila moʻa ʻia i kahi paʻi lahilahi. Hoʻokomo ʻia kēia ma luna o ka pā wela no hoʻokahi minute a ʻelua paha, e lilo ana i diski semi-translucent nui i ʻōwili akamai ʻia ma luna o ka "bat" wicker ma mua o ka hoʻololi ʻia ʻana i kahi moena ulana. Hoʻopili ʻia kēia mau moena i loko o nā ahu a lawe ʻia i waho i ka lā, kahi e waiho ʻia ai ma nā ākea e maloʻo ai, ma mua o ka hānai ʻia ʻana i loko o kahi ʻōpala e like me nā mea ʻoki pepa i loaʻa ma nā keʻena kānāwai a me ke aupuni. Pīhoihoi au i ka haʻi ʻia ʻana ua hana kēia hale hana i 500 kg o nā noodle i ka lā. He lā hana lōʻihi kēia a he ola paʻakikī, akā ʻaʻole naʻe ʻo Thoai Anh. "He ola maikaʻi lākou, palekana lākou," wahi āna - hāʻawi ʻia ka hana paʻakikī i ka Delta, akā ʻaʻole palekana kālā.

A laila kipa mākou i kahi māla huaʻai; nui nā ʻohana e hoʻohana i ko lākou ʻāina e ulu ai nā ʻano hua like ʻole. ʻAʻole kēia mau māla lāʻau i nā hana maʻemaʻe me nā lāʻau i laina ʻia i nā lālani maʻemaʻe i ʻike ʻia e ka poʻe malihini mai ka ʻāina wela - ua like lākou me nā ululāʻau, kahi e kū pū ai nā kumulāʻau ʻoliʻoli me nā poʻohiwi me ka naka, longan, a me ka lychee.

ʻO nā ala wai ʻāwili
Ke hoʻomau nei mākou, e hoʻololi ana i ko mākou ala ma nā ala wai maoli i hana ʻia e ke kanaka. Ma nā wahi, ʻelua wale nō waʻa ka laulā, i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e nā hale maʻalahi i hana ʻia mai kahi kumu lāʻau hoʻokahi me - inā laki ʻoe - kahi hao lima ʻohe. He mea maʻalahi ke ʻike i ke kumu i kapa ʻia ai kēia mau alahaka monkey - pono ʻoe e like me ka agility e like me ka simian e hele ai iā lākou, ʻoiai ʻo nā keikikāne a me nā kaikamahine ʻōpio e holo kaʻa i kēlā ʻaoʻao, ua haʻi ʻia iaʻu.

ʻAʻohe oʻu manaʻo i hea mākou i kēia pae, ʻaʻohe manaʻo kuhikuhi a i ʻole ka mamao a mākou i hele ai, akā hikiwawe loa mākou i waho i ke ala nui o ka muliwai ma ka ʻaoʻao lōʻihi o ke kaona ʻo Can Tho, a ua hoʻokuʻu ʻia au ma ke kaona o ke kaona. ʻO ka pāka promenade, kahi e kiaʻi ʻia ai kahi kiʻi ʻeleʻele hina o Ho Chi Minh – a i ʻole ʻAnakala Ho, e like me kona ʻike aloha ʻia – e kiaʻi ʻia e kahi mākaʻi nāna e hoʻokuke aku i nā poʻe i kahi mamao mahalo mai ka ʻakaʻaka o ʻAnakala Ho. Ke neʻe mai nei kahi ʻino o ke ahiahi - akā hou, ʻike wau i ka hoʻomalu ʻana o ka wai i nā ʻano kūlohelohe o ke ola no ka poʻe a pau e noho nei - a hoʻi au i ka hōkele no ke kī, kahi pāʻani backgammon, a me ka leʻaleʻa o ka heluhelu ʻana i ka nūpepa ma ka veranda. e hāʻule ana i loko o ka wailele ma luna o ka ʻūhā i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka terracotta.

I kekahi lā aʻe, kiʻi ka kaʻa iaʻu ma ka hōkele no ka ʻimi ʻāina. ʻO Nghia kaʻu alakaʻi, he ʻōpio kamaʻāina maikaʻi me ka ʻike encyclopedic o ka mōʻaukala a me ka moʻomeheu o ka ʻāina. Lawe mua ʻo ia iaʻu i ka hale o Duong-Chan-Ky, he mea nona ka ʻāina i ke kenekulia 19 i kūkulu ʻia i ka makahiki 1870 i hale kupaianaha kahi e waiho ai i kāna hōʻiliʻili o nā lako nani a me nā mea kahiko. Hoʻohui ka hale i nā manaʻo ʻEulopa a me Vietnamese, me kahi papahele palani nani i hoʻonui ʻia i nā kia lāʻau hao i lōʻihi ma mua o hoʻokahi haneli a e mau paha kekahi. ʻO ka lua kahiko e noho nei i loko o ka hale, he mau lālā o ka hanauna ʻekolu.

Hele mākou i kahi kauhale liʻiliʻi ma ka wahi ʻo Bin Thuoy (Peaceful River). ʻAʻohe mea kupanaha e pili ana i kēia kamaʻāina - ua like ia me nā tausani o ka ʻāina ʻo Delta haʻahaʻa - akā ʻo ia ke kumu makemake wau e ʻike iā ia, e hoʻoheheʻe iaʻu iho i nā mele o ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā. Aia ia ma kahi hui o nā kahawai - ʻoiaʻiʻo - a hoʻohanohano kahi hale tiger i kahi moʻolelo kūloko e haʻi ana i ka ulu ʻana o kēia wahi i nā tigers a me ke ʻano o ka hoʻokumu ʻana o ke kauhale i ka maluhia me ka ʻuhane tiger a loaʻa iā ia ka pale.

ʻO ka luakini Pākē kahiko loa o Can Th
Ma ke alanui nui, ʻakaʻaka hilahila ka poʻe kūʻai ma ka mākeke, hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā keiki liʻiliʻi i hala ʻehā ma luna o nā kaʻa kaʻa hoʻokahi, a ma ke keʻena billiard ākea, pāʻani nā kamaʻāina kekahi i kekahi no ka hoʻolimalima ʻana i ka papaʻaina (3,000 dong i kēlā me kēia hola) a i ʻole ka bila no ka. ʻaina ahiahi ia ahiahi. I ko mākou hoʻi ʻana i ke kūlanakauhale, kū mākou i kekahi mau kilomita ma uka o ka luakini Kina kahiko loa o Can Tho, ʻo Hiep Thien Cung, i kūkulu ʻia i ka makahiki 1850 e nā mea kālepa Kina i noho ma ʻaneʻi. Ua haʻalele ka hapa nui o Kina iā Vietnam i ka hopena o nā makahiki 1970 ma hope o nā nalu o ka hoʻomāinoino ʻana, akā ke kipa ʻia nei ka luakini e ka poʻe i hoʻopaʻa ʻia, a me nā Vietnamese kūloko, nāna i hoʻopaʻa i kā lākou pili, me ka manaʻo ʻaʻole hiki ke hana ʻino i ka pule. ke olakino a me ka pōmaikaʻi mai kekahi make ʻole, me ka nānā ʻole i ka manaʻoʻiʻo.

ʻO kā mākou huakaʻi hope loa ma kahi mea hana waʻa, ʻo ka haku e hana ikaika ana i hele ʻia e kāna haumāna ʻōpio. Hoʻopili ʻia nā waʻa liʻiliʻi ma nā ʻano hana like ʻole i ka hale hana, e kali ana i nā mea kūʻai mai nā kauhale a piʻi i nā kahawai. He 1.5 miliona dong (US$100) ka moku, ʻoi aku ka nui o ka poʻe i hiki ke loaʻa, akā e like me nā kaiāulu kuaʻāina a pau, e kūʻai pinepine nā poʻo kauhale waiwai i nā waʻa a ʻae i kā lākou mau mea hou e uku i ka hōʻaiʻē a ke hiki ia lakou. Kū ka haku hana no kahi hoʻomaha pōkole a haʻi mai iaʻu me ka lokomaikaʻi, "Ke hana nei au i nā hola he 14 i ka lā, akā hauʻoli wau, a hala koke ka lā." Ua hauʻoli ʻo ia i kāna ʻāpana - e loaʻa mau kahi mākeke no nā hana kahawai i kūkulu ʻia ma ka makuahine o Rivers.

Ma ke kikowaena ʻo Can Tho, hōʻike ʻia kahi luakini Khmer i kahi ʻano hoʻolālā Thai, ʻokoʻa loa i ka luakini Vietnamese ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ke alanui. Mālama ʻia kēlā paʻakikī a mālama maikaʻi ʻia e nā Vietnamese kūloko waiwai. ʻO ka luakini Khmer, ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana, he ʻuʻuku liʻiliʻi, e hōʻike ana i ka pōloli o nā haʻawina. ʻO ka Khmers ka hapa liʻiliʻi a ʻilihune o ka heluna kanaka. Hoʻokahi makahiki a i ʻole 18 mahina nā keiki kāne Khmer ma ke ʻano he mōneka i ka makemake o ko lākou mau mākua, ʻoiai ʻaʻole like lākou me ka mōneka i ko lākou hoʻomaha ʻana e pili ana i ka haʻi ʻakaʻaka a me ka puhi paka ʻana i ka hale o ka luakini.

I ka lā aʻe, ʻauʻau ka mālamalama o ke kakahiaka nui i ke alo melemele a me ke keʻokeʻo nani o Victoria Can Tho i ke kukui gula - he kukui maʻemaʻe a palupalu ʻole nā ​​​​huhū ʻoihana. ʻO kēia hoʻi ka manawa maikaʻi loa e kaʻahele a puni ke kūlanakauhale, ma mua o ka wela. ʻO ka haʻalulu o ke ola o ka muliwai i kona manawa maikaʻi loa i kēia manawa, ua hoʻokuʻu ke kaʻa i ka lehulehu o nā limahana a me nā mea kūʻai aku ma kekahi ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai, ma mua o ka huki ʻana i ka helu like me ka makemake a pau e holo ma kēlā ʻaoʻao.

ʻO Can Tho ke kūlanakauhale nui loa o ka ʻāina ʻo Delta, a ke ulu nei. Noho nā hale kūʻai e kūʻai aku ana i nā moped, nā mea hana hou, a me nā mea ʻenehana kiʻekiʻe ma ka ʻaoʻao o nā hale kūʻai meaʻai maloʻo kahiko a me nā hale kūʻai waihoʻoluʻu e hoʻolaha ana i nā mea hoʻomana. ʻO kekahi mau kilomita mai ke kaona aku he alahaka hoʻokuʻu ʻia, e hele ana i kēia manawa ma ke kahawai Bassac ākea, kahi papahana ʻelima makahiki i hoʻopau ʻia ma mua o kēia pule e wehe i ka Delta hema ma o ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka hiki, e hoʻopau ana i ka bottleneck o ka. ʻO ke kaʻa ʻana o ka ferry i kēia manawa a hoʻopōkole i ka manawa holo i Ho Chi Minh City ma kahi kokoke i hoʻokahi hola.

Hoʻopili nā ʻano ʻano ʻino ʻole i ka lewa
Akā ʻo ka hele ʻana a puni kēia ma nā ʻano he nui o ke kaona ʻAsia, ʻelua mau mea ʻala ʻole i ka wā mua e hoʻopuni ana i ka lewa, e hōʻike ana iā ʻoe he nui loa ʻoe ma French Indochina: he kofe lākou a me ka berena hou - kekahi o nā kuʻuna colonial maikaʻi loa i hoʻomanawanui ma Vietnam. ʻo ia ka moʻomeheu kofe a me ka baguette i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka poʻe Farani i ko lākou noho ʻana ma kēia ʻāina hoʻomehana. Nui nā hale kūʻai kofe, me nā noho haʻahaʻa, e like me ka noho deckchair e kū pono ana i ke alanui ma nā lālani - nā wahi haʻahaʻa akā hauʻoli e hoʻomaha a nānā i ka hele ʻana o ka honua. Holo kaʻa kaʻa kaʻa me nā hīnaʻi i piha i nā ʻeke hou, e waiho ana i nā ala ala ʻala e huki hou aku iā ʻoe i nā ala hope. He wahi maʻalahi kēia, pono ʻoe e nānā i ka manawa a i ʻole e nalowale ka lā holoʻokoʻa ma mua o kou ʻike ʻana.

ʻAʻole pono iaʻu e hana, no ka mea, i kēia ahiahi ke hele nei au i ka waiwai Delta ʻē aʻe o Victoria ma Chau Doc, kahi kūlanakauhale mākeke liʻiliʻi ma Bassac, akā ma luna o 100 mau kilomita i uka, kokoke i ka palena me Cambodia. ʻO ka muliwai ke ala wikiwiki loa e hiki ai i laila, a ke holo nei ka hōkele i kahi lawelawe waʻa wikiwiki ma waena o lāua. He huakaʻi hoihoi ʻehā hola, piha i nā hiʻohiʻona hoihoi i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka waʻa ma ka puliki ʻana i ka ʻaoʻao ʻākau o ka muliwai i kona hoʻokuʻi ʻana i uka i ke au ikaika. ʻO nā moku lāʻau nui e holo ana ma ke kahawai nui, i kūkulu ʻia ma ke ʻano like me ka mea liʻiliʻi ʻo Mekong, akā nui ka nui no ka holo ʻana i ka moana, e lawe ana i nā ukana nui o ka laiki a me nā mea kanu i waho - a me nā kaʻa, nā kaʻa, a me nā mea uila.

Aia nā hale hana hana iʻa ma kahakai, akā i ka hāiki ʻana o ka muliwai - ma Can Tho ʻoi aku ia ma mua o hoʻokahi kilomika ākea - lilo ka ʻike i ke kuaʻāina, me nā ʻupena lawaiʻa kaila Kina e kau ana ma nā kapa kahawai a me nā kamaʻāina e hoʻopili ana i nā ʻaoʻao ʻaoʻao he nui. ko lakou ala i ka aina palahalaha ma o aku.

ʻO ka hope, ʻike wau i kahi puʻu ma mua - kaʻu mau lā mua - a ma ka hui ʻana o ka Bassac me kahi ala wai 200 mika ākea e pili ana iā Tien Giang, ka Mighty Mekong's Upper River, huki mākou i ka Victoria Chau Doc. hale hōkele, kahi aʻu i hālāwai ai me kahi lālā o nā limahana i ʻaʻahu ʻia i kahi ao dai nani - ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻo ka ʻaʻahu ʻāina Vietnamese, kahi hui pū ʻana o nā pālule ākea a me nā kuli-lōʻihi i hoʻopili ʻia i luna a pau i ka siliki maikaʻi loa, ʻo ia ka mea nani loa o nā lole ʻAsia.

ʻO kaʻu alakaʻi no koʻu noho ʻana ma ʻaneʻi ʻo Tan Loc, he kumu mua ʻōlelo haʻahaʻa, hoʻonaʻauao maikaʻi a ʻike nui i kona ʻāina hānau. Ke kau nei mākou i kahi waʻa liʻiliʻi no ka mākaʻikaʻi ʻana i ka mākeke lana ponoʻī o Chau Doc - aia i kēlā me kēia kauhale Delta, ʻoiaʻiʻo - haʻi ʻo ia iaʻu i ka ʻeha o kona mau mākua i ka wā o ke Kaua ʻAmelika a ma ka lima o ka Khmer Rouge, i ka wā ʻo ka 1970s e hana i nā hoʻouka kaua ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka palena, ʻehā mau kilomita wale nō ka mamao. Ua neʻe aku kekahi ʻōpio Tan Loc a me kona ʻohana mai ka pilikia akā ua hoʻi koke mai i ka wā i palekana.

"Ua ʻike ʻoe, loaʻa iā mākou nā Cham Muslims, Khmers, Buddhist a me Christian Vietnamese, kahi hui o nā poʻe ma Chau Doc, akā noho like mākou ma ʻaneʻi, ʻaʻohe hakakā," wahi a Tan Loc me ka haʻaheo. Ua ʻike paha lākou i ka weliweli a me ka ʻeha, a ʻike lākou i ka makehewa o ka hakakā lāhui a hoʻomana.

ʻO ka noho wale ʻana ma ke kauhale lana
E hahai ana ka makeke lana e like me Can Tho, aka nae ma ka unahi liilii, a mahope lawe ko makou kanaka waapa ia makou e ike i na hale lana kaulana o Chau Doc. Ua kūkulu ʻia lākou ma luna o ke kahua o nā pahu aila ʻole, a ʻo ka mea ʻē aʻe e pili ana iā lākou ʻo ia ka mea ma lalo, no ka mea, ua hoʻokuʻu ʻia ma lalo i loko o ka lepo ʻo Mekong wai he mau hīnaʻi iʻa uea nui kahi i mahi ʻia ai nā haneli he mau haneli. Hānai ka ʻohana iā lākou ma ka puka pahele i waenakonu o ka papahele o ka lumi hoʻokipa, a i ka manawa e kokoke ana ka nui o ka iʻa i hoʻokahi kilokani, ʻohi lākou iā lākou, e waiho ana i nā kupapaʻu i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia a me ka piha i nā lālani ma lalo o ka lā e maloʻo ai.

Ke neʻe nei mākou, me ka hoʻohana ʻole ʻana i ke kauhale lana, i hala aku i nā wāhine ʻaʻahu ʻahuʻula e holo lima ikaika ana i kā lākou mau waʻa liʻiliʻi mai kekahi home a i kekahi - he hiʻohiʻona Delta kuaʻāina mau loa. I ka hōʻea ʻana i ka ʻāina maloʻo, hele mākou i kahi huakaʻi pōkole ma kahi kauhale Cham a i ka Mosque Mubarak, kahi e aʻo ai nā keiki liʻiliʻi i ka Koran i loko o kahi lumi kula e pili ana i ka hale pule haʻahaʻa akā maʻemaʻe, ʻo kona hale minaret a me ka hale kupapaʻu i ʻike ʻia ma ka home ma kēia ʻāina wai.

Nui nā wahi hoʻāno ʻē aʻe e kipa aku ai ma ke kikowaena o ke kūlanakauhale, mai nā hale pule a i nā luakini a me nā pagodas, akā ʻo ka mea kupanaha loa ʻo ka luakini o Lady Xu, ʻeono mau kilomita ma ke komohana o ke kūlanakauhale ma lalo o ka puʻu aʻu i ʻike ai i koʻu hōʻea ʻana i Chau Doc. , i kapa ʻia ʻo Sam Mountain. Hele mākou i laila i loko o ka Jeep American maʻamau i hoʻihoʻi maikaʻi ʻia a Victoria, e hele ana i nā paka kiʻi pōhaku a me nā hale hoʻokipa hou ma ke ala, e hōʻike ana i ke kaulana ʻana o kēia ʻāpana o ka Delta.

ʻAʻole ia he mea kupanaha i loko o kahi ʻāina kokoke loa i nā kahawai haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa, e hāʻawi ʻia kahi 260-mika obtrusion i ke kūlana hanohano. ʻO ka mauna ʻo Sam ka home o ka lehulehu o nā luakini, nā pagodas, a me nā ana hoʻi, he nui me kā lākou mau moʻolelo a me kā lākou moʻolelo ponoʻī. ʻO ka luakini o Lede Xu, ma kona kumu, aia paha ka mea maikaʻi loa, ʻoiai ʻo ke kiʻi a puni ka hale nui i kūkulu ʻia, aia ma ka piko o ka mauna. I ke kenekulia 19, ua hoʻāʻo nā pūʻali Siamese e ʻaihue, akā ua ʻoi aku ke kaumaha o ke kiʻi i ko lākou iho ʻana i ka puʻu, a ua koi ʻia lākou e haʻalele iā ia i loko o ka ululāʻau. Ma hope mai ua ʻike ʻia e nā kamaʻāina kūloko, a ua hoʻāʻo hoʻi e hāpai i luna, akā ua kaumaha hou ke kiʻi.

Ua puka koke mai la kekahi kaikamahine a hai aku ia lakou he 40 wahine puupaa wale no e amo ai, a he oiaio keia, no ka mea, ua lawe maalahi na kaikamahine i ke kii i lalo o ka mauna kahi i naueue hou ai. Manaʻo nā kamaʻāina ʻo ia kahi i makemake ai ʻo Lede Xu e waiho ʻia kāna kiʻi, a no laila ua hoʻonohonoho ʻia ke kahua o ka luakini. Ma loko, he kaleidoscope o ka pena waihoʻoluʻu, kukui kukui, a me neon gaudiness ka luakini, akā, he wahi haipule nui ia no nā ʻohana Kina a me Vietnamese, nāna e lawe mai i nā puaʻa i kālua ʻia e hāʻawi aku i ke kūʻai aku i ka lokomaikaʻi o ka Lede.

Aia koʻu wahi hope loa ma ka piko o ka mauna, kahi e hāʻawi mai ai ka hiʻohiʻona 360-degree iaʻu i kahi hiʻohiʻona ʻē aʻe o ke kuhikuhi ʻana o Mekong i nā ʻano āpau o ke ola ma aneʻi. Aia nā ʻāpana ʻāina nui ma lalo o ka wai, ʻoiai ʻo nā ala wai piʻo a me ka pua pololei, nā awāwa i hana ʻia e ke kanaka e kahe ana i kahi mamao ʻeleʻele, ko lākou mau kapa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e nā hale paʻa, nā waʻa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma nā ʻaoʻao. Ma ka hema a me ke komohana, ua kaha nā puʻu ʻē aʻe i ka palena me Cambodia a me ka lihi o ke kahawai. Mai laila mai, ʻokoʻa ke ola, hoʻomalu ʻia e nā ʻano kūlohelohe ʻē aʻe a noho ʻia e nā moʻomeheu like ʻole. ʻO ka Mekong Delta he honua nona iho, ʻokoʻa i nā ʻano āpau, i hoʻopiha ʻia me nā hiʻohiʻona, nā leo, a me nā mea ʻala e hoʻāla ai i kāna loulou pili ʻole i ka makuahine o nā muliwai.

Ua hoʻohana ʻo Jeremy Tredinnick, kahi mea kākau moʻolelo huakaʻi i hānau ʻia ma UK a me ka mea hoʻoponopono, i nā makahiki he 20 i hala e ʻimi ana iā Asia mai kona home ma Hong Kong. Ua lanakila ʻo ia i nā makana ma ke ʻano he luna hoʻoponopono o Action Asia magazine a me ka hoʻoponopono hoʻoponopono o Silk Road, Morning Calm, and Dynasty magazines, a hāʻawi i nā moʻolelo a me nā kiʻi i nā puke huakaʻi kiʻekiʻe he nui, me TIME, Travel + Leisure, a me Condé Nast Traveler . He mea aloha i nā wahi ʻokoʻa a me ka moʻomeheu ma lalo o ke alo mākaʻikaʻi o ka ʻāina, i nā makahiki i hala iho nei, ua kākau pū ʻo Jeremy, paʻi kiʻi, a hoʻoponopono i nā alakaʻi moʻomeheu a me ka mōʻaukala i Kazakhstan, ke Alanui Silk, Mongolia, a me Kina ʻo Xinjiang Region.

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