Nā Waina o Sepania: E ʻono i ka ʻokoʻa i kēia manawa

Na E. Garely kiʻi

Ua loaʻa iaʻu ka manawa e hoʻolauna ʻia i kahi koho o nā waina kūʻokoʻa a ʻono mai Sepania.

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Ua alakaʻi ʻia ka Papa Master e Alexander LaPratt i lilo i Sommelier ma Le Bernardin, DB Bistro Moderne, a me ka Laundry Farani a me ke poʻo Sommelier no Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten. I ka makahiki 2010 ua lanakila ʻo LaPratt i ka NY Ruinart Chardonnay Challenge (he hanana ʻono makapō). I ka makahiki 2011 ua koho ʻia ʻo LaPratt ka Best Sommelier ma ʻAmelika ma ka hoʻokūkū ʻAmelika Sommelier Association a ua hoʻonoho ʻia ʻo ia i ka lua ma ka Chaine de Rotisseurs Best Young Sommelier National Finals.

Ua ʻike ʻo Wine & Spirits Magazine iā LaPratt ka "Best New Sommelier" (2011), a ua pani ʻo ia i ka US ma ka Best Sommelier o ka World Competition ma Tokyo (2013). I ka makahiki 2014, ʻo ia ka 217th kanaka i puka i ka hoʻokolohua Master Sommelier i makemake nui ʻia. 

ʻO Alexander LaPratt, Master Sommelier

He lālā ʻo LaPratt no ka L'Order des Coteaux de Champagne, ua loaʻa iā ia ka Diplome d'honneur mai ka Academie Culinaire de France, ʻo ia ka lālā o ka papa hoʻokumu a me ka puʻukū no The Best Sommelier in the US Organization. Eia kekahi, ʻo LaPratt ka mea nona ka hale ʻaina Atrium DUMBO (Michelin i manaʻo ʻia), a ʻo ka mea i loaʻa i ka Best Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator (2017, 2018, 2019). He lālā ʻo ia o ke kumu o ka Institute of Culinary Education.

Nā Waina o Sepania (Curated)

1. 2020 Gramona Mart Xarel·lo. ʻO ka waina rose kūlohelohe. DO Penedes. ʻO nā ʻano hua waina: Xarel-lo Rojo.

Ua hoʻomaka ka ʻohana Gramona i kā lākou hana waina i ka makahiki 1850 i ka wā i mālama ai ʻo Josep Batlle i ka māla waina no kahi ʻohana kūloko. Aia ʻo Pau Batlle (ke keiki a Josep) i ka ʻoihana ʻona waina a hoʻomaka ʻo ia e kūʻai aku i nā hua waina a me nā waina i hana ʻia mai La Plana i nā mea hana ʻālohilohi ma Farani e hana nei i nā pōʻino o ka phylloxera.

I ka makahiki 1881, kūʻai ʻo Pau i ka māla waina ʻo La Plana, a hoʻomaka ʻo Celler Batlle i ka ʻike ʻana he mea kōkua ʻo Xarel.lo, ka hua waina ʻōiwi o Catalunya, i kāna kūʻai kūleʻa ʻana i nā waina iā Farani ma muli o kona hiki ke hana i nā waina sparkling maikaʻi. I kēia lā, mālama ʻia nā māla waina e Bartomeu lāua ʻo Josep Lluis, e hoʻokumu ana i nā cuvees i ʻike ʻia ai ka ʻāina. 

ʻO nā waina i hana ʻia ma Gramona ua mahi ʻia ma ke ʻano organically (CCPAE) a he 72 mau ʻeka i mahi ʻia biodynamically (Demeter). Paipai ka ʻohana i ka hoʻomau i kā lākou huahana ma o ka hōʻemi ʻana i kā lākou kapuaʻi kalapona me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ikehu geothermic a me ka hana hou ʻana i nā wai āpau i hoʻohana ʻia ma ka ʻāina.

ʻOi aku ka lōʻihi o ka ʻelemakule o nā waina mai Gramona ma mua o nā waina ʻālohilohi ʻē aʻe mai Sepania. Ua hoʻokuʻu ʻia he kanawalukūmāono pākēneka o nā waina ʻālohilohi i hana ʻia ma Sepania ma hope o 9 mau mahina ʻoiai ma Gramona nā makahiki o nā waina he 30 mau mahina. ʻO ka lepo ma Alt Penedes ka nui o ka limestone a ʻo ka lepo kokoke i ka muliwai ʻo Anoia he ʻoi aʻe ke aluvial, a ʻo ka lepo kokoke i ka mauna ʻo Montserrat ka hapa nui.

Mai nā māla waina o Cavas Gramona i mahi ʻia ma ke kino, ua ulu ka ʻano ʻulaʻula, Xarel-lo, i nā hua waina i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ke anuanu no 48 mau hola e unuhi i kahi hue rosy palupalu mai nā ʻili. Hoʻopili ʻia kēia me ka fermentation i loko o nā pahu kila kila ma lalo o nā mahana i mālama ʻia. Mai nā pahu e hele ai ka waina i loko o ka hue.

I ka maka, ʻulaʻula ʻulaʻula me nā hiʻohiʻona. Hauʻoli ka ihu me nā hua maʻalahi a me nā hua hou, e hōʻike ana i ka palale i kahi ʻike maʻemaʻe, poepoe, akahai, ʻano kino me ka acidity medium. Maikaʻi ma ka ihu a me ka ʻāʻī, hāʻawi ia i nā hōʻailona o ka peach, strawberry, a me ka rhubarb. Hāʻawi ka hoʻopau ʻana i ka acidity, a me ka hou me nā hōʻailona liʻiliʻi o ka pepa ʻulaʻula. Hana ʻo ia i kahi mea inu ʻono maikaʻi, a e hoʻohālikelike pono me nā tapas, Caribbean a i ʻole ʻAmelika Hema.

2. 2019 Les Acadies Desbordant. Mahiʻai kino. Nā ʻano hua waina: 60 pākēneka Garnatxa Negra (grenache), 40 pākēneka Sumoli.

Ua hoʻomaka ʻo Mario Monros i nā Les Acacies ma ke ʻano he leʻaleʻa waina liʻiliʻi ma 2008 ma Avinyo (ʻĀkau Bages Plateau) ma kahi kiʻekiʻe o 500 m. Hoʻolaha ka hale waina ma 11 mau ʻeka i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā ululāʻau paina, nā ʻoka, nā ʻoka holm a me nā kumu lāʻau (ʻo ia hoʻi, Rosemary a me heather) me ka muliwai Relat kokoke i ka mahiʻai. Ua hoʻonui ka papahana a lilo i ʻāpana o ka DO Pla de Bages (2016), e hana ana i nā liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi o nā waina maikaʻi.

Me ke koho ʻana o ka Origin Pla de Bages wineries e hoʻomau i ka moʻomeheu ulu waina i hoʻomaka i ke kenekulia 19 i ka wā i loaʻa ai ka nui o nā māla waina ma Catalonia. Mālama ʻia nā ʻohana waina i nā ʻohana, a aia lākou a pau i kā lākou māla waina, e lawe mai ana i kahi kuʻuna, a me ka pae pilikino o ka mālama ʻana i nā kumu waina e hopena i ka maikaʻi o nā waina. I kēia manawa aia he 14 hale kūʻai waina me ka DO Pla de Bage.

Hoʻohana ʻo Les Acacies i kahi kaʻina hana micro vinification e ʻae ai i ka hana liʻiliʻi e hiki ai i ka winery ke hoʻokō i ka hōʻike maikaʻi loa o kēlā me kēia ʻano a me kona terroir. ʻOhi hua waina lima me nā pahu liʻiliʻi; He 20 pakeneka o ka huawaina piha me na kumu no ka lepo a me ka mea ala i huiia. ʻO ka makahiki i loko o nā pahu kila a me nā pahu sima, nā ovoids, a me nā amphorae a puni nā tannins a hoʻonui i nā memo pua.

I ka maka, ʻulaʻula plum me nā ʻōniʻoniʻo ʻulaʻula a ʻike ka ihu i nā hua ʻulaʻula hou, a me nā pua. Ua hauʻoli ka palaka i nā tannin i hoʻohui ʻia me ka ʻono maʻalahi. E hui pū me ka sausage ʻala a i ʻole nā ​​ʻāpana hipa, a i ʻole nā ​​​​burgers.

3. 2019 Anna Espelt Pla de Tudela. ʻano ʻano hua waina Organic. 100 pakeneka Picapolla (Clairette).

Ua hoʻomaka ʻo Anna Espelt e hana me ka waiwai o kona ʻohana, ʻo Espelt viticultors ma DO Emporda i ka makahiki 2005. Ua aʻo ʻo ia i ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i ka nohona a me ka mahiʻai organik me ka pahuhopu - e lawe i kāna mau waiwai i ka ʻohana 200 ʻeka mahiʻai. Me kāna Pla de Tudela, mahalo ʻo ia i nā kaukani makahiki o ka launa pū ʻana ma waena o kona mau kūpuna a me ka ʻāina a lākou e noho ai. Hoʻomaopopo ʻia ka varietal no kona hiki ke hoʻopaʻa i ka acidity i loko o nā piʻi wela loa. 'O Picpoul 'o ia ho'i, "kuu i ka lehelehe," e kuhikuhi ana i ka waiwaina ki'eki'e maoli o ka huawaina. Ke nānā aku nei ka māla waina i ka ulu ʻana i nā ʻano like ʻole mai ka Mediterranean a me ka Emporda: Grenace Carinyena (Carignan), Monastree (Mourvedre), Syrah, Macabeo (Viura) a me Moscatel (Muscat).

ʻOhi lima ʻia ʻo Anna Espelt, a ukali ʻia e 24-hola hoʻoluʻu, a laila hoʻopau ʻia kekahi hapa a macerated me ke kaomi mālie. Hoʻohana ʻia ka hū kūlohelohe no ka fermentation i loko o ka pahu a ʻelemakule no 6 mau mahina i loko o nā hua paʻa. ʻO ka mea ola i hōʻoia ʻia (CCPAE), ua haku ʻia ka terroir me ka pāpaʻi, paʻi ʻia me ka granite. ʻO Saulo ka lepo one i loaʻa mai ka decomposition o ka granite a ʻo ka slate ke kuleana no nā waina ʻoi, ʻoi aku ka tannic a ikaika.

I ka maka, hāʻawi ka waina i kahi melemele ʻālohilohi me nā ʻōmaʻomaʻo/gula. Loaʻa i ka ihu ka citrus, a me nā pōhaku pulu ʻoiai ke ʻono nei ka palale i ka paʻakai paʻakai i manaʻo ʻia mai ka minerality o Cap de Creus. Pākuʻi ʻia me ka ʻoyster, pāpaʻi, pāpaʻi, mussels, a me ka sushi, ka moa i kālua ʻia, a me ka pā Thai.

4. 2019 Clos Pachem Licos. 100 pakeneka keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo Grenache mai Gandesa, DO Terra Alta. Pālolo-limestone lepo.

Aia ʻo Clos Pachem ma ke kikowaena o Gratallops (DOQ Priorat). Hoʻohana ʻia ka māla waina ma muli o kahi protocol biodynamic. Hoʻokumu ʻia ka cellar me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka hoʻolālā hoʻomau, a hoʻolālā ʻia e Harquitectes (harquitectes.com, Barcelona). Kūkulu ʻia me nā mea kūlohelohe, ʻeleʻele, a me nā mea paʻa, ʻo ka wahi kikowaena me ka waihona nui (no ka fermenting) he mau paia mānoanoa a me nā keʻena ea e mālama ai i ka hale 100 i loko o ka friji e hāʻawi ana i ke kūpaʻa hydrothermal piha.

ʻOhi ʻia nā hua waina ʻelua: ʻAukake a me Kepakemapa. ʻOhi lima i nā pahu 12 kg, me ka koho mua ʻana o nā hua waina i hana ʻia ma ke kula, a ukali ʻia e kahi koho lua i ka hale waina. Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā hua waina mai nā ʻāina like ʻole i nā mahana i mālama ʻia i loko o nā pahu kila kila. Hana ʻia ka fermentation waiʻona ma kahi mahana i mālama ʻia. Me ka malolactic fermentation, hui ʻia nā pahu, a ʻelemakule no 8 mau mahina i loko o nā pahu kila kila e mālama ai i ka ʻakika a me ka hou.

I ka maka - ʻōmaʻomaʻo me nā hiʻohiʻona gula. Loaʻa i ka ihu ke ʻala mai nā huaʻai (nā ʻāpala a me nā pears), nā limes a me nā lemona, e hana ana i kahi ʻike maʻemaʻe a maʻemaʻe i hui pū ʻia me nā memo o nā mea kanu ʻono a me ka meli. Hoʻohālikelike ʻia ka waina me ka acidity maikaʻi. Kū ikaika - hoʻokahi, a i ʻole hui pū me ka iʻa a me ka iʻa, nā mea kanu, a me ka paʻakai palupalu.

Ma ka Hanana

No ka 'ike hou aku, Bus maanei.

He moʻolelo kēia e kālele ana i nā waina o Sepania:

E heluhelu i ka ʻāpana 1 ma aneʻi:  Hoʻonui ʻo Sepania i kāna pāʻani waina: ʻoi aku ka nui ma mua o Sangria

© Kauka Elinor Garely. ʻAʻole hiki ke kope ʻia kēia ʻatikala kope, me nā kiʻi, me ka ʻole o ka ʻae palapala ʻia mai ka mea kākau.

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